Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build: Completed!
- Thread starter LrdSatyr8
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LrdSatyr8
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Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build
Took long enough to get to this point. Makes sense now right? LOL Only thing i don't like about the 4060 is that the flash rate doesn't give you a consistent blinking time. You always end up with a dead spot in the cycle where no lights are on at all. But it does look alot better then I could have done with the oscillator circuit I had before.
Grendels said:
Took long enough to get to this point. Makes sense now right? LOL Only thing i don't like about the 4060 is that the flash rate doesn't give you a consistent blinking time. You always end up with a dead spot in the cycle where no lights are on at all. But it does look alot better then I could have done with the oscillator circuit I had before.
LrdSatyr8
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Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build
Actually... I tried it with just 3 LEDs on 1 chip and get the same result. Its as if the cycle starts at 0 and then progresses. I even tried putting reversing the LED leads with just 2 on the same pin set and it happens. May be just this particular type of 4060 chip. Its all I've had to test with so I'm not sure if any of the other types have the same issue or not, but try it with just 3 LEDs and see for yourself. Lemme know what you find out.
Grendels said:
Actually... I tried it with just 3 LEDs on 1 chip and get the same result. Its as if the cycle starts at 0 and then progresses. I even tried putting reversing the LED leads with just 2 on the same pin set and it happens. May be just this particular type of 4060 chip. Its all I've had to test with so I'm not sure if any of the other types have the same issue or not, but try it with just 3 LEDs and see for yourself. Lemme know what you find out.
Grendels
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Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build
I have and I have seen that dead spot. It depends upon how you wire the LED's. With two LED's no dead spot what ever. With three you get it. Now if you use two and two others that are reversed on it, then you will not get the dead spot. Since only two are lighted up at once. The problem occurs when it tries to light up three or more. The chip doesn't supply enough power for that and it shuts down a bit.
I have and I have seen that dead spot. It depends upon how you wire the LED's. With two LED's no dead spot what ever. With three you get it. Now if you use two and two others that are reversed on it, then you will not get the dead spot. Since only two are lighted up at once. The problem occurs when it tries to light up three or more. The chip doesn't supply enough power for that and it shuts down a bit.
LrdSatyr8
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Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build
Its been a couple of days since my last update and I apologize. Been having a rough time with the body. Seems the unwarping I had done before didn't take as well as I thought and trying to get the two body halves to stay together has been one hell of a task. But finally, I think I got them to come together pretty good.
Still have the hair band holding them together until the glue fully cures just to be safe. But I was able to get the center leg assembly into the body and it fits perfectly with the electronics and getting the wires thru the side hole where the leg will be was a pain in the butt.
Once I got the body halves together I placed a piece of spare styrene in the hole at the bottom to give a good backing for putty and so I can sand it out into the proper shape when it's dried. You can see in the photo the seams between the body halves are gonna be a pain in the butt to fill and sand. Still got alot of work to do, but things are coming together.
There was something I noticed as I placed the left leg in place that I had to fix. There's a visable seam that I have to scribe into the upper arm that wasn't there and the actual plastic seam wasn't in the right position, so I scribed a new line and it looks pretty good. The other leg will have the same seam. I haven't got the bulked out joint between the body and the leg yet, because the body is still curing and I want it to cure completely before I fill and sand.
Finally I found a way to store the extra arm. Inside the back panel I created a small holder that the arm will slide and stay in so that it can be stored away without losing it. Works pretty well.
And finally... just because I know you guys are curious. I got all the lights into the dome. Still having a bit of difficulty getting the board to fit but I made a little video to show that they all actually work and show just how cool it looks. This is gonna be awesome when it's done!
All the lights are in!
More to come... lemme know what you think!
Its been a couple of days since my last update and I apologize. Been having a rough time with the body. Seems the unwarping I had done before didn't take as well as I thought and trying to get the two body halves to stay together has been one hell of a task. But finally, I think I got them to come together pretty good.
Still have the hair band holding them together until the glue fully cures just to be safe. But I was able to get the center leg assembly into the body and it fits perfectly with the electronics and getting the wires thru the side hole where the leg will be was a pain in the butt.
Once I got the body halves together I placed a piece of spare styrene in the hole at the bottom to give a good backing for putty and so I can sand it out into the proper shape when it's dried. You can see in the photo the seams between the body halves are gonna be a pain in the butt to fill and sand. Still got alot of work to do, but things are coming together.
There was something I noticed as I placed the left leg in place that I had to fix. There's a visable seam that I have to scribe into the upper arm that wasn't there and the actual plastic seam wasn't in the right position, so I scribed a new line and it looks pretty good. The other leg will have the same seam. I haven't got the bulked out joint between the body and the leg yet, because the body is still curing and I want it to cure completely before I fill and sand.
Finally I found a way to store the extra arm. Inside the back panel I created a small holder that the arm will slide and stay in so that it can be stored away without losing it. Works pretty well.
And finally... just because I know you guys are curious. I got all the lights into the dome. Still having a bit of difficulty getting the board to fit but I made a little video to show that they all actually work and show just how cool it looks. This is gonna be awesome when it's done!
All the lights are in!
More to come... lemme know what you think!
Jamaicanmodels69
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Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build
When he is next to C3-PO with the lights
blinking it's gonna look awesome!! ;D
When he is next to C3-PO with the lights
blinking it's gonna look awesome!! ;D
Glorfindel
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Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build
That is neat.
That is neat.
LrdSatyr8
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Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build
I've been dealing with the body for the past couple of days and I finally got it solved. Major pain in the butt when you have to glue, clamp, let it completely cure, then glue again, clamp again, completely cure, etc... did that about 10 times until the body finally held together properly. But it's holding a good shape and I've doing little stuff while the glue sets. First off, I got the nut in for the foot. This is the anchor for the bolt to attach it to the base.
After the body had hardened enough I was finally able to get some work done on the bottom indentions and the shoulder joints. The bottom indentions are near the base under the side vent. These little indentions I cut out (and really wish I hadn't because it meant cutting off a main support for the body halves and turns out I didn't need to). I glued a couple of peices of sheet styrene behind the holes I had made and then using my Magic Sculpt (for those of you who haven't heard of this stuff... Milliput is about the same thing), I flattened out the indentions and let it cure. I also used the sculpting clat as a putty to fill in the body seams. You can tell the seams are pretty bad. That's just a peice of black tape to hold the front door shut while I worked.
When those where hard I began working on the shoulder joints. Where the body and legs meet. It was pointed out to me awhile back that the joints where too small on the model) and it has been eating at me ever since. I've looked at just about every kind of thing I could use for these things from old marker bodys to small diameter PVC pipes. Nothing I could find would work. It was either the wrong size, or the walls were too thin or too thick. So using my sculpting clay I began to shape the joints. Turns out, I was right and came up with a pretty good joint. Using the leg as a guide helped make the joints fit perfectly.
After the joints cured I wrapped the joint in bare metal foil and the final outcome looks fantastic!
Well that's all for now... more to come! Lemme know whatcha think!
I've been dealing with the body for the past couple of days and I finally got it solved. Major pain in the butt when you have to glue, clamp, let it completely cure, then glue again, clamp again, completely cure, etc... did that about 10 times until the body finally held together properly. But it's holding a good shape and I've doing little stuff while the glue sets. First off, I got the nut in for the foot. This is the anchor for the bolt to attach it to the base.
After the body had hardened enough I was finally able to get some work done on the bottom indentions and the shoulder joints. The bottom indentions are near the base under the side vent. These little indentions I cut out (and really wish I hadn't because it meant cutting off a main support for the body halves and turns out I didn't need to). I glued a couple of peices of sheet styrene behind the holes I had made and then using my Magic Sculpt (for those of you who haven't heard of this stuff... Milliput is about the same thing), I flattened out the indentions and let it cure. I also used the sculpting clat as a putty to fill in the body seams. You can tell the seams are pretty bad. That's just a peice of black tape to hold the front door shut while I worked.
When those where hard I began working on the shoulder joints. Where the body and legs meet. It was pointed out to me awhile back that the joints where too small on the model) and it has been eating at me ever since. I've looked at just about every kind of thing I could use for these things from old marker bodys to small diameter PVC pipes. Nothing I could find would work. It was either the wrong size, or the walls were too thin or too thick. So using my sculpting clay I began to shape the joints. Turns out, I was right and came up with a pretty good joint. Using the leg as a guide helped make the joints fit perfectly.
After the joints cured I wrapped the joint in bare metal foil and the final outcome looks fantastic!
Well that's all for now... more to come! Lemme know whatcha think!
I'm so excited!
LrdSatyr8
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Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build
Thanks Q.
[quote author=Glorfindel]
That is neat![/quote]
Thank you so much... You guys here are so wonderful! I just can't expres enough how much it truly drives me to know that you all are enjoying this build. It is so close to completion now and It really helps! Thanks go out ot all of you!
Quaralane said:
Thanks Q.
[quote author=Glorfindel]
That is neat![/quote]
Thank you so much... You guys here are so wonderful! I just can't expres enough how much it truly drives me to know that you all are enjoying this build. It is so close to completion now and It really helps! Thanks go out ot all of you!
LrdSatyr8
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Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build
Ok... I've been pouring over the reference pics I have and have discovered a discrepency between the R2's (big surprise). Here are my reference pics.
Now this is the 3 legged version I've been using as my main reference. Note the small panel on the left side in the yellow highlighted area of Pic #1. Looks like it was damaged somehow in that photo. Also it appears as if there is a scribed silver panel between it and the mood light. One thing I didn't realize is that the mood light panel was outlined in silver (re: Pic #2). That'll be a pain. However... when I compared it to the 2 legged version... everything changes...
So looking at the 2 legged version we see that that scribed panel in Pic #1 is actually painted in Pic #3. Also, it appears as if the silver outlining of the mood light is painted blue as well (re: Pic #4) with the mood light section in a darker blue or even black! So now I'm puzzled. So, like any good artist, I had to go back to the movie. Since this was going to be the ESB version, I figured, I would scour the entire movie and see what they actually used.
So, now we can tell... Pic #5 is a snapshot of the deleted Wampa Pen scene... I really wish they would have kept that scene in there. It appears as if it's the same version as in Pic #1. And Pic #6 shows that the mood light is actually outlined in silver as suspected. So, now I know how to finish the dome detailing, and I can finally get this puppy done... but wait... New problem!
It appears as if I'm not gonna have enough room to make the panel there properly. I guess I'll just have to compromise. I'm sure I'll be able to come up with something. More to come!
Ok... I've been pouring over the reference pics I have and have discovered a discrepency between the R2's (big surprise). Here are my reference pics.
Now this is the 3 legged version I've been using as my main reference. Note the small panel on the left side in the yellow highlighted area of Pic #1. Looks like it was damaged somehow in that photo. Also it appears as if there is a scribed silver panel between it and the mood light. One thing I didn't realize is that the mood light panel was outlined in silver (re: Pic #2). That'll be a pain. However... when I compared it to the 2 legged version... everything changes...
So looking at the 2 legged version we see that that scribed panel in Pic #1 is actually painted in Pic #3. Also, it appears as if the silver outlining of the mood light is painted blue as well (re: Pic #4) with the mood light section in a darker blue or even black! So now I'm puzzled. So, like any good artist, I had to go back to the movie. Since this was going to be the ESB version, I figured, I would scour the entire movie and see what they actually used.
So, now we can tell... Pic #5 is a snapshot of the deleted Wampa Pen scene... I really wish they would have kept that scene in there. It appears as if it's the same version as in Pic #1. And Pic #6 shows that the mood light is actually outlined in silver as suspected. So, now I know how to finish the dome detailing, and I can finally get this puppy done... but wait... New problem!
It appears as if I'm not gonna have enough room to make the panel there properly. I guess I'll just have to compromise. I'm sure I'll be able to come up with something. More to come!
