Do I need to thin my Tamiya X-22 clear coat?

yeah , I know , and those " new " , button type nozzles are way better than the oldschool , little barrel ones .
They've been using those more than 10 years for sure though .

I don't know if I've seen the new new ones --- trigger type or something ?
Last time I grabbed a can of spray paint from Home Depot , at least a year ago , I was shocked by how much all the spray paints had increased in price .
 
Curious, 2 questions: why is the term "varnish" used for the clear coats, reads like it would be on the thick & glossy side.
2: Is there an Air Brush clear mat that is compatible with Tamiya paints, I prefer to not use the spray booms. Sprays are good for larger scales 1/10, if used correctly.

oops question 3: check my understanding, gloss clear is applied only where the decals are to be used?

Thanks
 
Curious, 2 questions: why is the term "varnish" used for the clear coats, reads like it would be on the thick & glossy side.
2: Is there an Air Brush clear mat that is compatible with Tamiya paints, I prefer to not use the spray booms. Sprays are good for larger scales 1/10, if used correctly.

oops question 3: check my understanding, gloss clear is applied only where the decals are to be used?

Thanks
There are many brands of flat/matt clear you can use. Tamiya, Testors, Humbrol, AK Interactive, etc… All are fine to use.
Varnish is a hardware store way of saying clearcoat. All the same.

I usually spray the whole kit - be it armor or aircraft a coat of gloss clear. Ships, only on spots where decals needs to go. I usually shoot a coat of flat clearcoat to seal in the decals afterwards.

For auto kit, most of my car/truck bodies are painted with a gloss color. For some with decals on the body itself, there's no need to add a gloss clearcoat. I will shoot a coat of gloss clear to seal in the decals after my decal work is done.
 
@the Baron
I was more than curious of the history of those button caps since I could swear I remember them being used in 2004 , the first year I was in my shop in Houston , so , I asked Rustoleum .

Their response :
( I said a friend thought it was ten years and I thought it was at least twice that , 20+ :D )

Hello Keith,

Thank you for contacting Rust-Oleum Product Support.

Congratulations, you have the closer answer! The white comfort tip nozzles were introduced somewhere in between 2003-2005. However, the red nozzles weren't completely phased out until about 10 years ago.

If you have any additional questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to contact us!
Jacob S.
Product Support Representative
Rust-Oleum Corporation
Phone: (866) 580-4376
Fax: (866) 787-2150
 
@the Baron
I was more than curious of the history of those button caps since I could swear I remember them being used in 2004 , the first year I was in my shop in Houston , so , I asked Rustoleum .

Their response :
( I said a friend thought it was ten years and I thought it was at least twice that , 20+ :D )

Hello Keith,

Thank you for contacting Rust-Oleum Product Support.

Congratulations, you have the closer answer! The white comfort tip nozzles were introduced somewhere in between 2003-2005. However, the red nozzles weren't completely phased out until about 10 years ago.

If you have any additional questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to contact us!
Jacob S.
Product Support Representative
Rust-Oleum Corporation
Phone: (866) 580-4376
Fax: (866) 787-2150
Always going the extra mile, classic urumomo.
Pantherman
 
@the Baron
I was more than curious of the history of those button caps since I could swear I remember them being used in 2004 , the first year I was in my shop in Houston , so , I asked Rustoleum .

Their response :
( I said a friend thought it was ten years and I thought it was at least twice that , 20+ :D )

Hello Keith,

Thank you for contacting Rust-Oleum Product Support.

Congratulations, you have the closer answer! The white comfort tip nozzles were introduced somewhere in between 2003-2005. However, the red nozzles weren't completely phased out until about 10 years ago.

If you have any additional questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to contact us!
Jacob S.
Product Support Representative
Rust-Oleum Corporation
Phone: (866) 580-4376
Fax: (866) 787-2150

Thanks, Momo!

I found the image I have to illustrate the nozzle cap I mean:



Yeah, 10 years sounds about right for when I first saw them on rattlecans sold here in PA. And the latest design, a pistol-grip, I just saw for the first time this past fall.

Yeah, it may seem like a small matter to this or that contrarian, of course. And in the scheme of things, it's not a big deal; it's not like Rustoleum or Walmart's primers were the only products to be had. It just meant that it was no longer worth it to me to add them to my paint stash. Like I said, I use Tamiya's Fine Surface Primer in rattlecans, generally.

I am curious to try airbrushing Mr Surfacer, too, just to see how it works. But Tamiya's primer in rattlecans is the most convenient, for me.
 
I just wanted to see how corrupted my memory was or wasn't , lulz .
I was sure we were using those caps back in the early , mid 2000's
but
Things I think happened 4 years ago happened 12 years ago and things I think occurred 12 years ago actually went down last month
;)
 
Vallejo primer is what caused your paint to lift. It has terrible bonding qualities. If I use primer then I use a solvent type that has the bite to stay put. I have found that Vallejo paint or primer will lift from plastic when masking tape is removed. If my primer is solvent type then the Vallejo paint will not lift when the masking tape is removed.
 

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