I'm interested in people's thoughts and advice on how you dry fit parts of a model before cementing in place. I've tried to hold the pieces together, but that gets me only so far. It's hard to hold in place more than two or three parts. Tape doesn't work unless it's large parts, like a wing. But if it's cockpit components or the underside of a car, the parts are usually too small and fragile to tape. I've been in situations where after cementing, the parts don't come together easily or fit right. So clearly dru fitting is important, but how to do it?
When I am in this situation, it comes down to the glue type. Slower dry if you may have fitment issues and need to adjust parts as you go to add other parts.
First, I dry fit each part individually. I make sure that it fits in its place and that there are no issues with clearance. Clearance issues are fixed with tasks such as sanding, etc. Then I dry fit the many-part assembly if i can hold it in place.
Then I determine which glue to use. A slower drying glue which is usually a thicker glue, for multiple part assembly that needs adjustment or alignment is what I use. I use a toothpick for thick glue application.
This way, I can glue several parts and be able to adjust them into place as I assemble BEFORE the glue dries.
I think that you would be well off to have several glue types on hand with every build.
It may be a shock to some, but I still use Testors tube glue from time to time. If I need to glue and add parts before they dry... It's Testors old school or Tamiya 87012. Usually. I have Testors 3507 liquid and 3521 as well.
It depends on each glues drying and setting time. And that comes with experience and learned failures. And frustration sometimes too.
The thin set and extra thin like Tamiya 87038 set fast, evaporate fast and allow less time for multiple parts assemblies. But they are usually my go to glue. Unless I need to add many parts at the same time and align them. Then it's the thicker glues.
Be Well. Model On.
Eric