Group Build: Historical Warships of WWII

Alas, I've been working (in fits and starts) on the I Love Kit 1/350 Enterprise (could there BE a more historic WWII ship?). But I'm fairly well along at this point, having installed the hanger deck bulkheads, so I don't think it would qualify here. But looking forward to seeing everyone else's!

Michael
Michael join in on the fun. I think this GB is more about coming together and enjoying these builds more so than a GB with guidelines or rules persay. Kind of a break the ice so future GBs everyone will feel more comfortable together. It's all in good spirit of enjoying our hobby.
 
Michael join in on the fun. I think this GB is more about coming together and enjoying these builds more so than a GB with guidelines or rules persay. Kind of a break the ice so future GBs everyone will feel more comfortable together. It's all in good spirit of enjoying our hobby.
Well, thanks Jack, perhaps I will! I'll post some pics after the 24th, if I can figure out how.

Michael
 
Edbert,
Have you decided what color scheme you will do on your Texas?
I am undecided but leaning on Measure 22.
That is a good question, I have not decided for sure.

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I think Measure 12 is the coolest, but the kit from Trumpeter is a newer version after the ship was refitted with more AA and fewer 5-inchers.

So that leaves me choosing between 21, 22, and 33. But 22 is what is had on D-day, so I'm leaning towards it too.
 
That is a good question, I have not decided for sure.

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I think Measure 12 is the coolest, but the kit from Trumpeter is a newer version after the ship was refitted with more AA and fewer 5-inchers.

So that leaves me choosing between 21, 22, and 33. But 22 is what is had on D-day, so I'm leaning towards it too.
I have the 1/700 kit and I am leaning towards Measure 22. M12 would be a good one but like you said, would require some backdating of the deck arrangements. With M22, I like the contrasts between the dark sea blue and light 5N. I am not crazy on masking and painting the deck though.
 
Fighting the urge to drill out those portholes, would that be a mistake? I know they could be sealed but does the way this was molded indicate they are open or closed?

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I'm afraid I'll have a lot of questions, this is my 1st ship in well over 40 years.
 
Fighting the urge to drill out those portholes, would that be a mistake? I know they could be sealed but does the way this was molded indicate they are open or closed?

View attachment 135120

I'm afraid I'll have a lot of questions, this is my 1st ship in well over 40 years.
They don't have the blast covers dogged down, or even molded up. With bridge windows, I normally drill them out and fill them with Liquitex glaze, white glue, or if large enough, I place clear acrylic sheet behind them. It seems to add more dimension to the bridge than leaving them molded.
 
I have the 1/700 kit and I am leaning towards Measure 22. M12 would be a good one but like you said, would require some backdating of the deck arrangements. With M22, I like the contrasts between the dark sea blue and light 5N. I am not crazy on masking and painting the deck though.
There's this paint scheme, from a video game I am fond of and one of the main reasons I wanna try to build a boat :)

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Talk about a pain to mask, yikes!
 
Continuing work, never had 4 sheets of PE before, kinda daunting, but at least this is super-thin brass.

I'm a little disappointed in Trumpeter's QA/QC, this is my 1st ever kit from them so it may not be universal at all. But it seems the two halves of the hull are different lengths, and part of the deck was "melted" or somehow damaged.

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This is what I mean about the hull halves. You can see the step there on the bow. The biggest part is maybe a mm, rest is less, but still disappointing. I could bend the parts slightly to make them mate up, so the overall length might be okay. But if so that means they are warped.

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You might be wondering..."if you could bend them slightly to mate the halves why did you not do so?" This picture shows why. If the two halves of the hull were perfectly aligned, then the deck did not fit at all. You can see here it is still not perfect. But I think the deck being really close is more important than the hull, I think I can grind the hull to an acceptable profile much easier.

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Here's another example. The above water part (sorry for my ignorance of ship terminology) of the stern is mated pretty well, but even with that part lined up there are parts of the keel that do not align at all, including the hole for the rudder. Still a reasonably easy fix, maybe I'm spoiled by other manufacturers or just kits of higher-end and cost.

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You might have seen it in the 2nd pic, but this is a close-up of the melted bit I mentioned, that part of the deck is raised above the rest by at least 2mm. I do not look forward to adding putty after grinding he raised part down and having to scribe the wood lines again. Maybe I'll get one of those wooden deck aftermarket kits.
 
I have had fits issues with all my Trumpeter ships in the past. They get trickier in the superstructure. Trial fit and assemble as much as possible before gluing and don't be alarmed if you have to do some cutting and adjusting so that the upper superstructure looks right.
 
I remember when Trumpeter first started coming out with their 1/350 scale CVs, they were few, but the fit was better. However, there were shape and scale issues that had to be retooled as they moved forward with later war CVs.

It seems that their CQ has definitely taken the back seat to the desire to put out more ships new to the market. I hope the shortcomings don't detract from your desire to build this ship. Just know with some patience, the corrections in the end will be worth the effort, as it will enhance your abilities as a modeler during the course of the build. Know also, there is a wealth of knowledge here amongst your peers that can always help along the way.
 
Oh and one quick suggestion for the deck that is "melted". Use a heat source, e.g. boiled water cooled a bit, hairdryer or low temp heat gun to warm up the plastic enough so that is pliable and use flat faced pliers or the like to pinch it back straight. You might have to scribe the plank lines a little, but the plastic regained will be a much better seam than sanding and filling than rescribing.

Just my .02 cents worth on this type of repair, I always opt for using plastic over fillers or putty, stronger bonds and joints, also less work.
 
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That's disappointing to hear about Trumpeter's ship models......I've been eyeballing their 1/200 USS IOWA for awhile, not a cheap kit.
I'll probably still get it. I've been doing nothing but armor for the last few years and want a change of pace. I will say that Trumpeter's 1/16 panzer IV and Tiger II are good kits. The builds were pretty straightforward, no real issues.
 
That's disappointing to hear about Trumpeter's ship models......I've been eyeballing their 1/200 USS IOWA for awhile, not a cheap kit.
I'll probably still get it. I've been doing nothing but armor for the last few years and want a change of pace. I will say that Trumpeter's 1/16 panzer IV and Tiger II are good kits. The builds were pretty straightforward, no real issues.
From all the reviews I've seen or read state that the fit and finish is actually pretty good on their 1/200 ships.
 
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