Hobby Boss A-10 Thunderbolt II 1/48

I originally sprayed it on but found that brushing it on worked much better for me. Spraying gave me a pebbly surface like you describe. I never did thin it though.

I used the new Alcad gloss on my last build and plan top use it again. Once I get a couple more under my belt and if it goes well I'll probably stay with it.

If you really want to stay with Future try brushing it. Remember it's self leveling.
 
Future is tricky to use, but when you get it right, its wonderful. Here are a few things I've learned about applying Future.
Buff out the paint before spraying the Future. Buffing the paint once its dried for a bit will smooth out the finish quite a bit. I can usually get a semi-gloss finish from a dead flat paint by just buffing out the paint with an old t-shirt. The smoother the paint is to begin with, the smoother the Future will be.
Another tip is to start off with a mist coat of Future, then another, then maybe step it up with a heavier coat, but not tooo heavy or you will get some runs. Keep the airbrush moving. Once the Future is just beginning to set up its time to apply the Windex. I spray it on using a fine tip on my airbrush. Again, not to heavy and keep the airbrush moving to avoid any runs in the Future. Repeat it if needed.
A good airbrush made a world of difference also.

Hope this helps
 
Thanks, that's some helpful information for sure.

But if it's a;ready set up bumpy, is there any way to flatten it or remove it without damaging the paint underneath?
 
I would try some 1000 or 1200 grit sanding papers. Give it a good dry sanding over the surface, that should level things out and make it ready for another pass of future.
 
Myke said:
I would try some 1000 or 1200 grit sanding papers. Give it a good dry sanding over the surface, that should level things out and make it ready for another pass of future.

That makes sense! I'll try it right away.
 
You've done a lovely paint job on that Warthog fella :eek: But I would use a lighter grade of paper to cut it back ,with 1000 grade you could go through the paint very easy ,I would use 1500/2000 grade ;)

Chris.
 
ShutterAce said:
I originally sprayed it on but found that brushing it on worked much better for me. Spraying gave me a pebbly surface like you describe. I never did thin it though.

I used the new Alcad gloss on my last build and plan top use it again. Once I get a couple more under my belt and if it goes well I'll probably stay with it.

If you really want to stay with Future try brushing it. Remember it's self leveling.

After I get this all smoothed out I might just go to my LHS and grab some brand name gloss cote from there. I use testors matte to finish so maybe I'll look for something from them, or Tamiya or Alclad like you've been using. The only thing is that I have some "MIG Productions" enamel wash that I'd like to try, which requires a glossy, acrylic base for proper application. So I'll have to be looking for an acrylic option, in which case Tamiya seems the most likely to be the solution.
 
Aww, bummer Hodges! Well, that's modelling. You'll getter buddy, you'll getter! I do like shutterace, brush on the future. It levels out nice if you don't "play with" it. On a bigger model, I've even just done where the decals go and after the final sealer (usually dullcoat), there was no evidence of where the future was undeneath. No "high spot". Your doing a fantastic job on this very cool kit!!
 
Since I got just a tad frustrated with this build today lol, I thought I needed a diversion:

img1205iw.jpg


It's a teensy-tiny little 1/144 F-104G that I picked up at the hobby shop for $5 when I was looking for my other acrylic clear cote option (I settled on modelmasters acryl clear gloss). It's a Revell, and it's a great little kit.
 
whiskee said:
I'm still in the learning process, but when i use future, i paint it on with a thick soft brush, un-thinned, and put it on nice and heavy. I have never had any issues with bumps or bubbles and it works great for me. For canopies I use a dipping method.

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2005/09/stuff_eng_tech_canopies.htm

My hope with this Modelmasters stuff is that it will cure with a lot less substance to it, so I don't have to worry about buildup/drips obscuring fine detail, and it will sit flat (not bumpy) after thin coats; so I'll be able to spray it like regular paint!
 
Whew, I think I'm okay. That Modelmasters stuff is great.

img1220qy.jpg


Although I'm afraid that I might have obscured some of the fine engraved detail (filled up some rivets etc.) during my Future debacle, and even though I was planning a wash, I'm afraid there are areas where the detail won't be quite clear enough to hold the wash and achieve the desired effect.
 
Sorry man. Hopefully that 1000/1200 grit didn't get you in trouble. I tend to be more aggressive with my modelling.

Gloss is looking nice though :)
 
Sorry to hear you have trouble with FUTURE !

I never heard of it Needing Thinning !!! I never did spray Windex over it as it is what people use to Strip it !!!

I am at a loss on how to Direct you on how to save the day !!! Sorry !

why did you go Heavy on Future ??? was there a reason behind it ?

all you need is ONE Coat to Aid your Decal application and then you DULL and your are done !!!

the Bumpyness might be an Air pressure thing ! i.e. too much or too little ? hard to say since we don't know what you are using for Air Brush set up and Compressor and what state your System is in !!!

I just hope you don't give up on it ? it looked Super Great .... before the future ! the Future picture is a little Out of Focus so I can't comment on that one ....

I feel your pain !!! I hope you get back to it and finish it !


Later buddy !
 
Unfortunately I won't be able to work on this for a while; summer is over and I'm headed back to uni. I just need some time to get settled in again, and moved, but I'll be back at it! Now I just have to pack it up really nice and safe and ship it to meet me there.
 
The bumpiness issue might be having the airbrush too far from the surface and the future is drying before it hits the model...just a thought.
 

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