How do you know what paint to use on my model

[STARMAKER.REBEL]

That " glue " is solvent .
it dissolves the plastic at the joint and creates a weld .
the solvent then evaporates completely leaving the new , solid connection .

It also dissolves the acrylic resin in the paint .
It will dissolve enamel paint also .
Those types of plastic cement are essentially the same formula as many airbrush cleaners .
Butyl acetate and acetone . Sometimes also butanone or ethyl acetate when it's the " fast setting " variety .

You can glue pre-painted parts in place but you need to use a smaller brush to apply a tiny amount of that solvent to only the point of contact .
Dab on a small amount of solvent to the tab of the part and then quickly install it .
that way you avoid flooding the joint with solvent .

If you don't have a spare brush you can still use the bottle's brush - just hit the lip of the bottle with the brush to knock off the majority of the solvent prior to touching it to the part to be attached .

Maybe use Nano Brushes that I accidently purchased?? I have a dozed of those.

 

[STARMAKER.REBEL]

I lost my post somehow.

 

[STARMAKER.REBEL]

I suffer from Memory losses and I keep forgetting what paint is Acrylic and what paint is lacquer; what paint is flat and what paint is gloss. I am disabled due to this and live off of Social Security Disability Income.

SoI decided to make a list of Acrylic Paint and Lacquer Paint. The way I did it was I looked up my paint in SCALEhobbyist.com and copy and pasted the description into a Word Processor. I had to add the paint number like what is shown in the attachment picture.

Lets use the Flat Tire black... (number H77)

In this picture I have highlighted in Blue the name and type that I need to copy and the number in the picture is H77. Then I paste the blue highlighted words in a
word processor and add the number of the paint, H77 would be Tire Black - Flat and I add : H77 so that it looks like::
"Tire Black - Flat: H77."

(This only works for SCALEhobbyist.com) ((My example is below the picture))






The list should look like this::

Olive Drab Fs34087 – Semigloss: H304
10 ml bottle of Acrylic paint.

Red – Gloss: H003
10 ml bottle of Acrylic paint.

Silver – Metallic: H8
10 ml bottle of Acrylic pain

Tan – Gloss: H27
10 ml bottle of Acrylic paint.

Aircraft Gray – Gloss: H57
10 ml bottle of Acrylic paint.

Khaki – Flat: H81
10 ml bottle of Acrylic paint.

Dunkelgrun - Dark Green: 70 F
10 ml bottle of Lacquer paint.


Burnt Iron – Metallic: H76
10 ml bottle of Acrylic paint.

Black – Flat: H12
10 ml bottle of Acrylic paint

Black – Metallic: H28
10 ml bottle of Acrylic paint.

RLM02 Gray Grau – Semigloss: H70
10 ml bottle of Acrylic paint.

Tire Black – Flat: H77
10 ml bottle of Acrylic paint.

Olive Drab Fs34087 – Semigloss: H304
10 ml bottle of Acrylic paint.

Blue Angles Yellow Fs13538 – Gloss: H329
10 ml bottle of Acrylic paint.

Xf-64 Red Brown
23 ml bottle of Acrylic paint.

Flat Clear: H20
10 ml bottle of Acrylic paint.

Olive Green/USMC Green RAL 6003 Fs34095
10 ml bottle of Lacquer paint.

Medium Olive Green - Fs34128
17 ml bottle of Acrylic paint.

 

[TimM63]

This seems like a lot of work to me. Do they not have a color chart?
Because I use Tamiya paint almost exclusively I print out their color chart and pin it to the wall above my bench. This gives me a quick reference.

 

[Edbert]

Is there a better paint the doesn't stain the parts around it?

PVA or "white glue" (Elmer's?) will not dissolve the paint, but it is hard to use without being visible when it dries.

For things like you show with the fire extinguishers I would use CA (cyanoacrylate or something sciency like that) or "superglue".

Note, it will also dissolve paint, but unlike the thin cements it is easier to control how much you put and where it goes. I use a superglue that it a bit on the thick side, there are MANY brands and I do not think it matters much. But you can use a toothpick and get a tiny little ball of it under the extinguisher where the dissolved paint will not be seen.

 

[STARMAKER.REBEL]

I painted these parts with a regular paint brush... (not airbrushed) NO paint brush marks at all whatsoever!

 

[STARMAKER.REBEL]

PVA or "white glue" (Elmer's?) will not dissolve the paint, but it is hard to use without being visible when it dries.

For things like you show with the fire extinguishers I would use CA (cyanoacrylate or something sciency like that) or "superglue".

Note, it will also dissolve paint, but unlike the thin cements it is easier to control how much you put and where it goes. I use a superglue that it a bit on the thick side, there are MANY brands and I do not think it matters much. But you can use a toothpick and get a tiny little ball of it under the extinguisher where the dissolved paint will not be seen.

Okay thanks. My house only has plastic toothpicks at the moment though.

 

[Edbert]

I painted these parts with a regular paint brush... (not airbrushed) NO paint brush marks at all whatsoever!

My dude! That is REALLY good, very seldom see a brush job look that good, patience pays!

Also, plastic toothpicks will work with superglue/CA, it is not a solvent like the super-thin stuff from Mr. Hobby or Tamiya.

 

[STARMAKER.REBEL]

I ran into a problem. I've been looking for several hours trying to find part C5 on step 21 of the manual. I dropped it and cannot find where it went. Maybe I should just close the back tailgate? (I highlighted the sponson in yellow.) (( I think it's called a 'sponson'))