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So im at the stage where im working on several models clear plastic parts all at the same time, (finishing my de Havilland mosquito canopy, p-40 canopy, and the porsche windows im doing the outside edges black) my question for the pros is how do you guys stop the paint from bleeding underneath the masking tape?

So you have all the info im using regular green painter's masking tape, doing 2 layers, And im brushing on the paint for these parts . As you can see in the pics. The canopy is really bad , the window for the Porsche isnt as bad. But is still bleeding under. And I would like to avoid this in the future so I don't have to fix this everytime and waste time basically doing something twice.

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I tried the off-hand stuff from Amazon, 6 rolls 3 different widths, same problem no matter how meticulous I was in putting on and pressing down. Switched to Tamiya brand, no more issues. Under magnification Tamiya is a lot smoother, less places for paint to seep under. Also, sometimes canopies are easier to brush on.
 
I was thinking if switching to tamiya but I didnt want to pay more just to run into this issue again. But i will now that I know its much better.
 
So im at the stage where im working on several models clear plastic parts all at the same time, (finishing my de Havilland mosquito canopy, p-40 canopy, and the porsche windows im doing the outside edges black) my question for the pros is how do you guys stop the paint from bleeding underneath the masking tape?

So you have all the info im using regular green painter's masking tape, doing 2 layers, And im brushing on the paint for these parts . As you can see in the pics. The canopy is really bad , the window for the Porsche isnt as bad. But is still bleeding under. And I would like to avoid this in the future so I don't have to fix this everytime and waste time basically doing something twice.

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I always use tamiya tape and rub the edge with a cocktail stick to seal it. Rarely have any issues. Pantherman
 
Number one. You're using green painters tape. Is that frog tape? Cuz if it is you have to wet the tape for it to activate. Also you mentioned brushing it on. I would spray it. There's a lot less chance of it seeping under and you can also control the direction you paint.
 
Burnish the tape as best you can, with a toothpick or similar stylus (hat-tip to you, Pantherman!) Or whatever masking material you use (eg, vinyl masks).
Another trick some use is to apply a clear coat over the masking to seal those edges and prevent paint from seeping under the tape. I use Future, for example, and I have tried applying it to the edges of the masking. It worked OK, but I've never had much of a problem with paint seeping under the masking, so I don't do that every time. When it has seeped, I've used a toothpick to scrape away the paint.
 
I always use tamiya tape and rub the edge with a cocktail stick to seal it. Rarely have any issues. Pantherman
I use a few things to rub the edges in depending on what shape/area im trying to tape off. Like this with the Tamiya TS spray paints is no big deal and I dont have issues. But when I try and brush the paint on it always bleeds, even if I try and get the smallest amount on the brush and do little by little it doesn't matter

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I use Frog yellow tape and burnish the edges. I don't normally have any issues but if I do get some bleeding I just take it off with a toothpick.
 
I use Frog yellow painter tape. Cheaper, thinner, and lasts longer than Tamiya tape. Never had issues with them. If subject is same color as fuselage, I glue canopy in place already masked up and use an airbrush. I never hand paint my canopy framework.
 
Just in to subscribe because I have the same problem. I can do as well freehand as mask/airbrush, with less prep and cleanup.
 
I've heard some folks use Bare Metal Foil for masking canopies. Buff it down, cut excess off, paint. The BMF mask can be pulled off after the canopy is painted.
 
as mentioned earlier, Tamiya tape I find to be the best. When I ran out of it last time, I picked some off-brand stuff at Hobby Lobby and it just does not perform as well. It tends to have "fuzzier" edges when cutting and sometimes bleeds through.

However, I do find even Tamiya's tape can bleed through when painting on with a brush vs using an airbrush or spray can. It think it depends on how wet the paint is when it hits the tape, how well the tape has been burnished down and how clean the part was for the tape to stick to

The longer the paint stays wet, and the wetter it is, the better chance it is going to run, especially if the tape does not have good adhesion in areas. This typically happens with clear parts as they are harder to stick to and they also tend to be curved and rounded that can leave microscopic creases in some areas

I typically get much less bleed with spray cans or airbrush because the paint dries very quickly and is usually applied in very thin layers leaving less chance for it to get under the tape. If you spray too much on though in heavy coats, I have gotten bleed that way as well

For painting with a brush instead of spray cans or airbrush, besides cleaning the surfaces, and burnishing as best you can, I would say to try to apply the first layer or so near the tape as light/thin as you can. I don't mean thin as in thinning the paint, but thin as in as little paint as possible. i.e. don't try to do one heavy layer vs sever thinner ones. And try starting from the tape area and brush into the uncovered model area rather than brushing towards the tape.

Not full proof, but it does lessen chances I find

another option I keep meaning to explore is painting or spraying a clear varnish first, then painting the color after it dries hoping that might seal things, and even if it does bleed, it is just clear?
 
I stopped buying Tamiya tape a long, long time ago. It's expensive - $5 - $6 for dispenser with tape, replacement roll of Tamiya tape runs around $3 - $5 depending on tape size. They're not worth it.

For the last 10 yearsor so, I use exclusively Frog Yellow Painter tape. You can find it at Walmart or any Paint store. It's exactly like Tamiya tape but cheaper. I can get a 60 yard roll of Frog painter tape at Walmart for $9 and it lasts me 10 times as long. I can cut any strip width I want and I never waste leftover tape. I cut & use what I need and the rest stay on my glass square I use for trimming tape.

Frog Green Painter tape is a little thicker and I use it for certain applications. I rarely use the green tape and still have about 95% of the tape on the roll.

Do yourself a favor and give Frog Yellow Painter tape a try. You will not be disappointed and the savings is well worth the money.
 
I stopped buying Tamiya tape a long, long time ago. It's expensive - $5 - $6 for dispenser with tape, replacement roll of Tamiya tape runs around $3 - $5 depending on tape size. They're not worth it.

For the last 10 yearsor so, I use exclusively Frog Yellow Painter tape. You can find it at Walmart or any Paint store. It's exactly like Tamiya tape but cheaper. I can get a 60 yard roll of Frog painter tape at Walmart for $9 and it lasts me 10 times as long. I can cut any strip width I want and I never waste leftover tape. I cut & use what I need and the rest stay on my glass square I use for trimming tape.

Frog Green Painter tape is a little thicker and I use it for certain applications. I rarely use the green tape and still have about 95% of the tape on the roll.

Do yourself a favor and give Frog Yellow Painter tape a try. You will not be disappointed and the savings is well worth the money.

I will have to give their yellow tape a try and see if it is better than the Hobby Lobby stuff

I do have the green tape and have used it, but mainly for large areas to fill in gaps between the yellow masking since it is much larger of a role
also work great to tear it into shapes for camo patterns with fuzzy edges
I hadn't used the green for delicate masking like canopies and stuff as it was so thick like you said.
I wrongly assumed the yellow would be the same way
 
I've used the technique on canopies where you brush on the paint, let dry and use a round tooth pick, nipped at a 45 degree angle and rub off the overage. Seems to work reasonably well. I just did a canopy in a Flat Aluminum I mixed up with Acrylics. Take your time and don't press real hard to avoid scratching the clear material.
 
I've used the technique on canopies where you brush on the paint, let dry and use a round tooth pick, nipped at a 45 degree angle and rub off the overage. Seems to work reasonably well. I just did a canopy in a Flat Aluminum I mixed up with Acrylics. Take your time and don't press real hard to avoid scratching the clear material.
Easier if you mask the canopy (do your own or buy masks) and glue them on the aircraft.

I always install my masked canopy onto the fuselage prior to airbrushing. Leave the masks on until after you've finished decal session and the final flat clearcoat is applied.
 
I;m a noob but why shouldn't frog tape work?

A video for you that I found. It's for painting houses but maybe it will work on models?


masking video says that dust will cause bleeding
I always use (and still use it) Frog Yellow Painter tape. Cheaper and lasts longer than Tamiya tape. It's the same type of tape as Tamiya tape.

I also use Frog Green Painter tape once in a while.I also use blue painter tape for other methods.
 

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