I'm confused about when to apply a gloss coat and decals

[trelane]

I've been painting a plastic model using Tamiya paints (the TS and AS lines). I'm about done painting and ready to start decaling.

1. But before I apply decals, is it recommended that I apply a gloss coat to the model or will the decals look just as good if they're applied directly on the paint? Note that I intend to use microset and microsol when applying the decals.
2. If it's recommend to apply a gloss coat, is there a spray can version I can use? For instance, would TS-13 Tamiya Gloss Clear Spray be a good fit? Or perhaps Mr. Top Coat Gloss Spray? Please note that I don't have an airbrush so I'm limited to brush painting or spray cans.
3. Also, if I apply a gloss coat and then do decals, would I apply another gloss coat after decaling to finish the model off?

Thanks!
P.S. - The Tamiya TS and AS paints are synthetic lacquer. The AS is apparently a synthetic acrylic lacquer

 

[Jim62]

If your paint is flat then put on a gloss coat before the decals if you want to prevent them from silvering. If you are planning to do a wash or panel lining post decals then do another gloss coat to protect the decals from being damaged by the wash. After you are done take it back to flat with a flat coat. I'm not familiar with the Tamiya spray paints just the acrylics in bottles but I would think the Tamiya Gloss Clear would work. Wait a bit and someone else will most likely chime in that's more familiar with the Tamiya spray paints and what works best with them as a clear coat. Future/pledge revive it, was the go to for clear coats but they are no longer manufactured. Hope some of this helps.

 

[trelane]

If your paint is flat then put on a gloss coat before the decals if you want to prevent them from silvering. If you are planning to do a wash or panel lining post decals then do another gloss coat to protect the decals from being damaged by the wash. After you are done take it back to flat with a flat coat. I'm not familiar with the Tamiya spray paints just the acrylics in bottles but I would think the Tamiya Gloss Clear would work. Wait a bit and someone else will most likely chime in that's more familiar with the Tamiya spray paints and what works best with them as a clear coat. Future/pledge revive it, was the go to for clear coats but they are no longer manufactured. Hope some of this helps.

1. What is a wash?
2. Also, will spraying a clear gloss coat on transparent plastic parts affect the transparency (as in, would it frost the parts)?
3. And for Pledge Revive it, do you mean https://www.pledge.com/en-za/products/pledge-moisturizing-wood-polish? If so, would you just spray on a thin layer and let it dry?

 

[Jim62]

Slivering is when air bubbles stay trapped under the decal causing a silvery appearance when applied to a non smooth surface like flat paint. Never spray the clear parts without masking the parts you don't want paint on, including a clear coat because yes it will ruin the clear plastic. Here's a link with some good info for you to read and youtube videos really helped me out when I started back at this hobby. https://www.cybermodeler.com/tips/painting.shtml

 

[Pantherman]

I've been painting a plastic model using Tamiya paints (the TS and AS lines). I'm about done painting and ready to start decaling.

1. But before I apply decals, is it recommended that I apply a gloss coat to the model or will the decals look just as good if they're applied directly on the paint? Note that I intend to use microset and microsol when applying the decals.
2. If it's recommend to apply a gloss coat, is there a spray can version I can use? For instance, would TS-13 Tamiya Gloss Clear Spray be a good fit? Or perhaps Mr. Top Coat Gloss Spray? Please note that I don't have an airbrush so I'm limited to brush painting or spray cans.
3. Also, if I apply a gloss coat and then do decals, would I apply another gloss coat after decaling to finish the model off?

Thanks!
P.S. - The Tamiya TS and AS paints are synthetic lacquer. The AS is apparently a synthetic acrylic lacquer

Hi trelane and welcome to the forum. Great help and advice here.

My way is a gloss coat after painting is done. I have used the Tamiya spray gloss and it works fine. Then decals using the microset and microsol. Then another thin coat of the gloss spray. Then weathering and washing if you want to do either, not always needed depending on what your building. When everything is finished a final light coat of matt varnish to seal and protect your build.

What area of modeling are you interested in.
Pantherman

 

[urumomo]

For what it's worth , I never apply a gloss coat specifically for decal application .
If you can Micro Sol decals down over 1/35 Zimmerit and more , are the super-nano-micro surface irregularities upon the surface of a paint going to be an issue ?
Nope .

I've never had silvering with decals .
I think that has to be a failure in the decal . The adhesive is nonexistent or has been washed away where the decal doesn't bond .

 

[Jim62]

For what it's worth , I never apply a gloss coat specifically for decal application .
If you can Micro Sol decals down over 1/35 Zimmerit and more , are the super-nano-micro surface irregularities upon the surface of a paint going to be an issue ?
Nope .

I've never had silvering with decals .
I think that has to be a failure in the decal . The adhesive is nonexistent or has been washed away where the decal doesn't bond .

I've tried without and have had some success and some failure. The issue is usually with decals with lots of clear areas that silver. I may try trimming that stuff out before using them on the next build.

 

[ohbejuan]

1. What is a wash?
2. Also, will spraying a clear gloss coat on transparent plastic parts affect the transparency (as in, would it frost the parts)?
3. And for Pledge Revive it, do you mean https://www.pledge.com/en-za/products/pledge-moisturizing-wood-polish? If so, would you just spray on a thin layer and let it dry?

As far as spraying clear parts, yes the gloss coat will effect their transparency

 

[trelane]

Slivering is when air bubbles stay trapped under the decal causing a silvery appearance when applied to a non smooth surface like flat paint. Never spray the clear parts without masking the parts you don't want paint on, including a clear coat because yes it will ruin the clear plastic. Here's a link with some good info for you to read and youtube videos really helped me out when I started back at this hobby. https://www.cybermodeler.com/tips/painting.shtml

Thanks for the info and link.

 

[trelane]

Hi trelane and welcome to the forum. Great help and advice here.

My way is a gloss coat after painting is done. I have used the Tamiya spray gloss and it works fine. Then decals using the microset and microsol. Then another thin coat of the gloss spray. Then weathering and washing if you want to do either, not always needed depending on what your building. When everything is finished a final light coat of matt varnish to seal and protect your build.

What area of modeling are you interested in.
Pantherman

I'm working on the Round2 Galileo Shuttlecraft model. I mostly just want a nice looking project when done.

 

[ohbejuan]

I'm working on the Round2 Galileo Shuttlecraft model. I mostly just want a nice looking project when done.

post pics when you are done! I am a newbie too and everyone here is very kind and positive about other people's work.

 

[the Baron]

...And for Pledge Revive it, do you mean https://www.pledge.com/en-za/products/pledge-moisturizing-wood-polish? If so, would you just spray on a thin layer and let it dry?

No, Pledge Revive It isn't the product. The product many have used as a clear coat was originally called Future, made by SC Johnson.


Over the years, the product name changed, while the formula remained the same. The last incarnation (I think) was this:



SC Johnson discontinued it last year. It was not a wood polish product, it was a clear acrylic for vinyl flooring, and linoleum back in the day.
Modelers used it because it was a reasonably-priced alternative to products made my modeling supply companies, and had a number of uses for us modelers, from gloss-coating prior to applying decals, to sealing a color coat before applying weathering media, to dipping clear parts like airplane canopies and windscreens to fill the tiny scratches and make them look clearer.

Gloss-coating is not absolutely necessary, as Momo noted. I do it sometimes for decaling, but not always. So don't feel like you must do it. Of course, you can choose to. Whatever works best for you.

 

[ohbejuan]

I have recently switched to using Ak Interactive intermediate Gauzy agent as an interim gloss coat. Not great for a final coat, but fine if you want to use it for decals or just to protect a coat of paint. For example I wanted to do several layers of chipping, but I wanted to protect the base layer. So I put a coat of this on before adding additional colors.

https://ak-interactive.com/product/intermediate-gauzy-agent-shine-enhancer/

 

[ohbejuan]

I have recently switched to using Ak Interactive intermediate Gauzy agent as an interim gloss coat. Not great for a final coat, but fine if you want to use it for decals or just to protect a coat of paint. For example I wanted to do several layers of chipping, but I wanted to protect the base layer. So I put a coat of this on before adding additional colors.

https://ak-interactive.com/product/intermediate-gauzy-agent-shine-enhancer/

I guess I left out the important part... The Ak stuff is "weathering ready" in 30 minutes or so. Which is why I started using it over pledge.

 

[CY343491]

No, Pledge Revive It isn't the product. The product many have used as a clear coat was originally called Future, made by SC Johnson.
View attachment 99161

Over the years, the product name changed, while the formula remained the same. The last incarnation (I think) was this:
View attachment 99162


SC Johnson discontinued it last year. It was not a wood polish product, it was a clear acrylic for vinyl flooring, and linoleum back in the day.
Modelers used it because it was a reasonably-priced alternative to products made my modeling supply companies, and had a number of uses for us modelers, from gloss-coating prior to applying decals, to sealing a color coat before applying weathering media, to dipping clear parts like airplane canopies and windscreens to fill the tiny scratches and make them look clearer.

Gloss-coating is not absolutely necessary, as Momo noted. I do it sometimes for decaling, but not always. So don't feel like you must do it. Of course, you can choose to. Whatever works best for you.

Hi Baron,
I never used pledge or another floor care product, but in my researches i found out that Johnson discontinued to produce pledge future. They sell it for extreme prices, but there is an alternative one called quick shine which have nearly same chemical composition.

 

[ApexBuilds]

I typically do a light layer of clear for the decals and finish with a few heavier coats after they've set. That way you can sand/buff the clear coat over the decals for a smooth finish.