My Next build Tamiya 1/48 A10 thunderbolt

Yeah , that's too much work . Much easier just lopping the entire hand off -- then cauterize the stump with a torch .
All that time in the sandbox and you're almost killed by a 2 cent , Chinesium drill bit . lol .

I've got a bunch of the Tamiya micro-bits .
They have heavier shanks so they are easy to load into the pin vise .
Are the tips on those Harbor Freight ones any good ? I have some other cheapo ones of unknown origin and the points are off center . Janky as hell .
 
urumomo said:
Yeah , that's too much work . Much easier just lopping the entire hand off -- then cauterize the stump with a torch .
All that time in the sandbox and you're almost killed by a 2 cent , Chinesium drill bit . lol .

I've got a bunch of the Tamiya micro-bits .
They have heavier shanks so they are easy to load into the pin vise .
Are the tips on those Harbor Freight ones any good ? I have some other cheapo ones of unknown origin and the points are off center . Janky as hell .
Click to expand...
Ya I'll have to take pictures the have a decent shank that has a plastic color coded ring around them they could be out into a Dremel or maybe a larger pin vise but they are built in a way were they could easily be hand turned and drill fine, they are how ever very fragile and don't take side loading well at all case in point my hand.

I have some where if I can find it a piece of shrapnel from a grenade that clipped me right above the ear. The shrapnel came from a US grenade so no purple heart a few inches probably woulda made a significant difference in my presence today but shit happens in the sand box I still got my 90% precent from the VA in the end.

It would be hard to model with a stump
 
" It would be hard to model with a stump "
LOL

I was on a jobsite one time with the architect and one of my guys was up on a ladder waling on a header and his framing hammer slipped out of his hand -- the thing hit me in the temple but it was a glancing blow so only soft tissue damage .
An inch the other way , either my head or that chunk of steel , and it probably would have killed me .
It hit me and continued on across the room and skipped off the floor and slammed into the wall .
Better me than that idiot architect , lol .
I'm unkillable !!!

Fun Fact : That guy that lost control of his hammer is currently serving a life sentence for stabbing his wife dead .
Strange world .
He was a good worker . Turns out he was also a murderer . Oops .
 
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o_O That's indeed a war story… I'm glad you got to the hospital, it could cause a serious problem. Hope everything is fine by now.
 
So I think I got spoiled by the simplicity of armor and have to reapproach this build in a more thought out matter.

I don't want to say armor is easy but realistically compared to this aircraft kit quality aside aircraft models are a lot more complex when it comes to paint and sub assemblies.

Tonight I started to tinker with the A-10 kit but quickly realized my standard approach was gonna need to be modified, their are alot of parts that painting would simplified if they were painted in sub sections. Im also having issues with panel lines, they are very delicate and I've accidentally sanded some lines off and had to rescribe them.

I was having issues with the airbrush again still haven't worked out the vellejo paints and when I can get them to spray they clogg up my airbrushes and require them to be pretty much torn down and deep cleaned. So I didn't get much done at all but tomorrow is another day.
 
Good , Grasshopper .
You will hone your skills with this crappy kit and prepare yourself for a decent one ....

 
So I'm back at it with a little bit clearer path.. I had planned on starting work on the kit earlier today but when I went out to buy some paints colors I didn't have I ran into some car trouble..

2.5 hrs later of wrenching a throttle position sensor out of my Ford explorer in the rain I was able to get the new part back in just in time to pack up and head into work

Luckily Im able to work on the kit at my job during down time. Perks of being the boss and having my own office.

I'm gonna be breaking a few rules with this kit when it comes to painting the first is I just don't have the time or the money to track down every needed color in acrylic or enamel so I'm gonna being doing some parts in enamel and some in acrylic depending on which colors I have in each and which ones won't cost me a ton of time trying to get to spray right and then clean the gun up for the next color.

Ive also decided to take the liberty of not following the recommendation colors for example Tamiya like Metallic Grey... Which to me makes no sense it's either silver, chrome, aluminum, or steal especially cause the color is being used on something that's supposed to simulate a metal part ... Why not paint aluminum.. aluminum metalic grey BAh... Call it wat it is silver anyways yes I'm sure there is an actual metallic gray out there but I went with flat steal. Because it's metal and aluminum was to close to chrome which is also being painted on parts of the model.

I do have a question regarding Tamiya paints as I am aware Tamiya codes start with X or XF with XF being flat and X being gloss I think?

I have XF-1 flat black but when I was in the hobby shop I saw Tamiya flat black, gloss black, and semi gloss black but there was Also BLACK I didn't get the code number but my question if it's not flat or gloss what the heck is it?

PXL_20221025_001532646.jpg
Above is the engine components that I'm currently working on which are another example of the parts that require multiple colors on a single piece before it can be assembled.

The rounded front edge is chrome, the middle is flat black and the exhaust end is Flat steal (which was supposed to be Met. grey) in my opinion the steal looks like it'll work out just fine. I know some areas of the paint need a little touch up as the tape kinda pulled it up a bit but this part is also hidden from sight so I'm not sure why it needed painting in the first place
 
That's the one I found it weird that they have a bottle labeled flat black and gloss black but that bottle just said black
 
Yes , the semi-gloss is labeled independently .
They don't label any of their bottled paints " gloss " , they use that X to indicate it is gloss and XF for flat .
My point is you were mistaken that you saw a flat , semi-gloss and gloss black and also the one labeled only " black "
That's the gloss -- the X-1 , 81001
 
urumomo said:
Yes , the semi-gloss is labeled independently .
They don't label any of their bottled paints " gloss " , they use that X to indicate it is gloss and XF for flat .
My point is you were mistaken that you saw a flat , semi-gloss and gloss black and also the one labeled only " black "
That's the gloss -- the X-1 , 81001
Click to expand...
I don't think the paint fumes were that strong that day but it's possible.. though I think I'm being gas lighted
 
You said , " I have XF-1 flat black but when I was in the hobby shop I saw Tamiya flat black, gloss black, and semi gloss black but there was Also BLACK I didn't get the code number but my question if it's not flat or gloss what the heck is it? "

" it " is too many menthols .
That stuff will kill you .
 
Good lord , I just noticed the price on that jar of paint from Amazon ,
Friggin criminal
 

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