Piranha PWI-GR

Jakko

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Oct 9, 2024
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The model I started most recently is going to be the middle of these three vehicles:

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On the left is a YP 408, in the middle a Mowag Piranha 8×8, and on the right the only Fuchs 8×8 ever built — the last two with the same turret as fitted to the YPR 765. This was a trial to find a replacement for the YP 408, but no more than these single vehicles were procured, and temporarily at that.

This model is inspired by a thread on the TWENOT forums in which the Fuchs is being built as a what-if, and somebody else posted the two photos above of the trials. That in turn reminded me that I have the following in my stash:

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An Italeri LAV-AD, from which I had taken one of the missile launchers to put onto the IDF M247 DIVAD I built earlier this year; the turret from an AFV Club YPR; and a set of LAV wheels from Trumpeter, which I had bought for when I would build the LAV, because the Italeri wheels are pretty poor, and for €3.95 new I could not really pass these up as a quick improvement. The LAV-AD doesn't appeal to me much anyway, so this way I can make something more interesting out of the kit.

In all, this, plus some more bits from my spares boxes, will become a Piranha PWI-GR (Pantser Wiel Infanterie — Groep, "Armour[ed] Wheel[ed] Infantry — Group") of the Netherlands Army, sometime in the late 1980s as it might have appeared had it gone into service.

To start, I put the three main hull parts together, and once they were dry, I cut a piece of 1 mm plastic sheet to make a new roof:

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It's still loose here, as is the AFV Club turret ring, but this is the position I will put it in. Piranha turrets tend to be offset to the left because the engine is on the right, and overhang the hull side a little if they're more than very small, so that's what I'll do here too. It won't be as big as on the trials vehicle, because I suspect that's a standard Piranha that Mowag had at hand, fitted with an adapter for the YPR turret. A purpose-built version would probably have a bit smaller adapter ring.

Then with the suspension installed:

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This wasn't too easy, because the part with the suspension arms for the front two axles doesn't fit overly well. I got it nicely in place using some clamps and a bit of wood, but it would probably have been easier if I hadn't glued the hull halves together already, because there would have been a bit more flex in the lower hull then.

The turret is just the main parts, the details still need to be added.

And then the bits I did tonight … After a good deal of searching for a suitable riser for the turret, which I wanted to have a conical shape because that's what you see on Piranhas a lot, I found one:

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This is a Games Workshop 40 mm wargames base, from which I filed off the texture on top and in which I made a hole for the turret, including the bayonet fitting.

I also scribed a line for the engine deck, between the grilles and the driver's hatch, but you can tell from the putty that I did that wrong on my first attempt :)

At the back, I added the basic shapes of two passenger hatches:

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These are just rectangles of 0.5 mm plastic card, 15.5 mm wide and 33 mm long. I took the dimensions from Trumpeter's instructions for the Canadian Grizzly, which are on Scalemates — I just zoomed in on them on my iPad's screen so that the hull width matched that of my model, and measured them up.
 
It was pointed out to me elsewhere that the riser I built was very low compared to the real thing, so to get it right, I went browsing through Jane's Armour and Artillery 1985-86 for the entry about this turret that I knew is in there:

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No dimensions, unfortunately, but by measuring in the photo and on the AFV Club turret, I could work out that the "inside" part of the turret needs about 39 mm of height in the hull. Some measuring on the model, then, showed that that room simply isn't there with the riser I have — there is just 39 mm from the top of it to the inside of the hull floor, but there are some tunnels and things on that floor for the drive shafts, which reduce the height inside by about 3 mm. I need to add some height to the riser, then, but the YPR adapter ring that AFV Club supplies (see the first photo above of the built hull) isn't thick enough for that, and would require a good deal of work to remove the bevelled edge it has to fit in the YPR's hull top, as well as to fill the gap along about a quarter of its perimeter. So, back to searching for something usable. Which I did:

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I cut the riser I had from the hull, which was easier than expected — GW's plastic apparently doesn't glue that well with the solvent I use. It's next to the hull here, together with a second wargames base, but this one is by Rackham (which went under over fifteen years ago) for their game, AT-43. This is also 40 mm in diameter, but has a vertical lower half and a bevel above it. By reaming out the GW base, it fits fairly neatly over the other one:

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I'm going to glue them together and then fill the seam with putty. This will give a slightly different appearance than on the trials vehicle, but I shall explain that by arguing that they would have built the production vehicles slightly differently :)
 
It's one of those things that's already turning out to be a lot more work than expected, though :) I really need to put the finishing touches on the BARV first.
 
It would be really nice to see the BARV finished, but there's no harm in getting stuck into something else. Things taking a lot more work and engagement is what makes them more interesting and fun. Having just dipped my toe into the world of Armour modelling, I can see why you guys enjoy it so much.
 
Main thing holding up the BARV is lack of a suitable figure for how I want to show it, but other than that I should really just get off my arse and finish the other few bits that still need to be done …
 
Next, I needed to tackle the rounded bit of armour below the turret riser. After first considering how to make this from a piece of plastic card to fit between the riser and the sloping side armour, I didn't feel like actually working that out: it's an plane that intersects a cylinder at an angle, so you could calculate and draw the exact shape it should have, but that was too much theory for me. I turned to a practical solution instead:

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I placed the riser on the roof and then used the tip of my modelling knife, held as vertically as I could, to scratch a line in the hull that follows the outside of the riser. I then drilled a line of holes just above that line (perpendicular to the side armour, not vertically) and connected those using the knife. After that, it was a matter of scraping, cutting and filing to get the inner edge vertical.

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All that remained was to glue in a bit of plastic card:

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To work out the length of this, I put the riser back on, made two pencil marks on it at the ends of the hole I had just cut, and rolled it along a ruler to measure the distance between them. I then cut the plastic slightly longer so I could trim it until it fit, and bevelled the edges where they butt up against the roof. Finally, after taking the photo, I filled the seam with putty.
 
And another interesting Jakko project gets underway... When I saw the photo at the beginning I thought they had been down to the museum and stolen the turrets of Stuarts....
 
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