Primer, Paint and Clear Coat Questions...

[RocketFoot]

I have my paint scheme all figured out and it looks like I'll be using some Krylon Fusion, that I got a great deal on through work, for the main body, frame and interior tub. It is supposed to be a primer paint with excellent adhesion to multi surfaces including plastic models. I assume the paint is a little thicker so it doesn't require a primer so I will have to watch my coverage to prevent panel lines from disappearing. No problem there, I plan on scribing my panel lines and accenting with Tamiya black panel accent...so can I spray without a primer? Or should I still light coat with Tamiya white Primer?

What should I use to surface prep the plastic? On metal I'd use thinner to remove any dirt, grease or oil but on plastic??

What about a clear coat to seal the paint and decals? I have head a lot of good stuff about Quick Shine Multi Surface Finish which I would like to use if it is safe for Krylon paint? My second choice is Tamiya X22 Clear, but is it safe for clear coating Krylon and decals?

Sorry for the questions...this is my first model paint job and I wanna try my best with as little prep and material problems as possible, LOL!

 

[urumomo]

That will bond well alone , no other primer required .
If you're concerned with any surface contaminants on the plastic you can clean the polystyrene with alcohol prior to painting .
All the clear-coats are fine atop the paint and decals .

Probably the best clear is the 2 part urethanes , but those others are fine .
Scalebuilder Chad can speak to that in more detail if you are interested .

 

[RocketFoot]

I keep second guessing myself! I have read some reviews that say Krylon isn't good for models because it goes on too hot. I just priced everything I need in Tamiya vs Krylon and it is over $60 more for the Tamiya and a lot less product! I'm not on a super low budget or anything, bu who doesn't want to save some coin these days?

 

[urumomo]

I love the Tamiya primer but I probably won't buy more after what I have is used up because it's gotten crazy expensive IMO .
Rustoleum makes some great paint , modified alkyds , that is great for plastic , that 2X stuff , but you might not find the color you want .
I've never seen a rattlecan that was " too hot " for polystyrene --- unless you just flood the surface or something . But who is going to do that ?

 

[RocketFoot]

I will be doing a 'practice' AMT Mach 1 before I start the highly revered Revell Boss 351 (converted to a Mach 1) so at least I can get comfortable painting and seeing how it goes on before I start the 2nd kit! I am going to try the floor finish for clear coat...I like the idea of brushing it on. I just hope it doesn't peel or yellow after time.

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

Krylon paint are pure garbage. I once used it and it ruined a model kit. Never again will I use it. It's not that it's too hot, it's just that it didn't spray as well as I hoped. I use Rustoleum 2X All in One for most of my auto builds.

 

[scalebuilderchad]

Please don't use Krylon paints. Use paints designed for scale models.

Spray cans from Tamiya or Mr Hobby are more expensive, but they are designed for the task. These brands designed for scale models meter the paint much better which offers you much more control over the results.

I have to use Rustoleum primer when I shoot lowrider paints and I hate it. The can sputters, doesn't atomize the primer very well. I constantly have to clean off the spray nozzle. And then when I am done I have to sand half the primer off because it sprayed out too fast.

Looking back at all my paint work I can say that the only paint jobs I have ever messed up are when I used products that were not designed for scale models. I didn't mess up every time. But all my errors happened while using Krylon or Rustoleum.

If Krylon has the color you want, then go for it. And if you end up with a decent paint job, thats great. But your odds of success will be much higher with paints designed for the job.

And if you use Krylon, I'll offer this piece of advice now so you don't have to start a thread about it later. Castrol Super Clean does a great job of stripping paint. Put the body in a tub, submerge it in Super Clean, and let it soak for a day. The paint will come right off.

 

[scalebuilderchad]

And don't even get me started about floor products being used as clearcoat.

There are all sorts of clearcoats out there that are designed to be a clearcoat for paint. Why use a product designed for floors???

I have an airbrush. I can choose any clearcoat I want. But I use Mr Super Clear Gloss UV Cut in a spray can from Mr Hobby. It is amazing.

 

[RocketFoot]

Choosing paint is becoming quite a chore! I am trying to find the perfect balance between cost efficient, easy clean up and excellent results!

 

[Belugawrx]

I've used Duplicolor primers and paints for years, never a problem..be careful with the Tamiya panel accent, it does not like enamels!!

 

[scalebuilderchad]

I've used Duplicolor primers and paints for years, never a problem..be careful with the Tamiya panel accent, it does not like enamels!!

That's not possible. Tamiya panel line paint IS enamel.

 

[RocketFoot]

OK, I am posting this up in favor of Tamiya paints! I was about to order up some Krylon but I keep hearing horror stories about it (mixed with several high praises) but in the end, I want to stick with my original choice and use Tamiya. I just ordered up a bunch of spray cans to get started...I should be buying bottles for my air brush but I am on a bit of a budget and I can't justify paying $8.00 for 23ML vs $11.00 for 100ML spray cans. I will be painting 2 models with these colors as well!


Here are my color selections:


TS16 Yellow for the body
TS6 Matte Black for the undercarriage and interior
TS15 Blue for the engine block
TS42 Light Gun Metal for the transmission, suspension and steering components
TS30 Silver Leaf for the exhaust and fuel tank
TS14 Gloss Black for the hood Stripe
87189 Light Gray and 87131 Black Panel Accent for various depth and shading
81022 Clear Gloss for highlighting the interior seats and dash
87044 Fine White Primer


That should get me pretty well on the way!

 

[scalebuilderchad]

100ml spray cans is deceiving. That 100ml includes thinner and propellant.

In reality you can get more coverage from 23ml in a jar. You have to thin it out to about 40ml for your airbrush. And you have less overspray with your airbrush.

Having said that. Spray cans are easier to use, and there is no cleanup.

So all in all I consider them each about the same cost.

 

[RocketFoot]

100ml spray cans is deceiving. That 100ml includes thinner and propellant.

In reality you can get more coverage from 23ml in a jar. You have to thin it out to about 40ml for your airbrush. And you have less overspray with your airbrush.

Having said that. Spray cans are easier to use, and there is no cleanup.

So all in all I consider them each about the same cost.

True...I am more interested in the easy clean-up! I am super short on free time so I'd rather be painting and building than cleaning up the airbrush when ever I have some spare time! Like you said, it probably breaks even but even though I am on a tight budget, time is more valuable!

There is a new LHS opening up near me so I will start picking up the air brush essentials a little at a time for my next project!

 

[scalebuilderchad]

By the way. I brush paint all the small parts. Engines, transmissions, and all the other little miscellaneous bits I brush paint with Tamiya X and XF paints. Then you just clean your brush with water.

You waste too much paint spray painting small parts.

 

[RocketFoot]

By the way. I brush paint all the small parts. Engines, transmissions, and all the other little miscellaneous bits I brush paint with Tamiya X and XF paints. Then you just clean your brush with water.

You waste too much paint spray painting small parts.

I was thinking about decanting some spray for brush work…read about it but never tried.

 

[scalebuilderchad]

I was thinking about decanting some spray for brush work…read about it but never tried.

Decanted spray paint is too thin to brush

 

[RocketFoot]

Decanted spray paint is too thin to brush

Roger that! I'll get up to speed, right now I just wanna get building!

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

Decanted spray paint is too thin to brush

This ^^^^

Great for airbrushing. Handbrushing? Forget it….

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

Scalebuilderchad….

I've been building model kits for over 40 years. Future is awesome in fixing cloudy windshields - especially if CA is used on clear parts. It does work wonders.

I'm leery of using Future as a clearcoat but then again, if it's on a dark color, who cares. A lot of model builders do use it.

As I've said before, I've used Rustoleum 2X and never had an issue with them. Then again, I've learned how to tame the animal of Rustoleum rattle can - or any rattle can paint for decades.

You talk about you're wasting too much paint airbrushing small parts. Not really. If you're several parts of say black - be it fan belt, starter, fan, interior pieces, undercarriage, etc…. I say why not? You're getting it done in one go.