The One I Have Been Waiting for

I have experienced that Tamiya Clear and Tamiya laquer thinner works really well.
Never had any problems with either Tamiya or Testors. My only issue with Testors is the stink hangs around, and clear gloss takes forever to cure fully. Tamiya doesn't stink for long and dries quick as heck.
 
Decided to see how the photoetch crew works out... 20210815_205416.jpg

Looks like the captain is on the bridge! I painted Kirk, so its not perfect. But good enough for the job I think.
 
When I did the gridlines on my saucer I just used one of the extra bridge domes. The kit has a black, clear, and translucent white dome to choose from. I drilled a small hole in the center of the black dome and inserted the needle end of the protractor into the hole. Easy-peezy. I did the same on the underside.

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Harbor Freight 6 inch Compass by Steve J, on Flickr
Btw I finally found out the new lighting kit has the colored parts again... good. Didn't wanna deal with having to paint those blinker covers and stuff.
 
So will be receiving the Trekworx designed replacement decals in a few days, the 3d printed shuttlebay(and shuttle to replace the one my dumb arse broke;) ) and the rest of the photoetch will be next week. Haven't heard anything yet from CultTvMan.com yet about the light kit, so being veruly stingy moneywise now just in case.
 
Got the replacement decals. Can't wait to use them. Hopefully I don't screw them up.20210823_162139.jpg

Hopefully the light kit ships soon. Still no notification.
 
Pretty beat and had bad last couple days at work, so not really in a model mood... but I did get the rings glued to the bussard assemblies.20210825_190925.jpg
If I am up for it I need to finish the bridge tomorrow.
 
So since I have been feeling pretty decent today(and cos the GF has been on me that I need to start doing stuff at home rather than just sit or lay... which she is actually right about for once :p), I got back to work on the Enterprise.

First up is the pylons. I glued the "windows" into the outboard sides and the vents into the inboard sides. Then got to work on the photoetch.

As I filed down the burrs I discovered I was slightly bending the metal on the corners. I then decided to try clamping the pieces in my micro vise with just the edge sticking up so I could file the burrs off.
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Worked fine, though there are a couple spots that look like the jaws made slight dents in the mesh. Once glued down though neither of us could see em. I did goof the upper two on the starboard pylon vents. The first was slightly off center and I never noticed it and the second shifted when I first glued it down. Fortunately they are pretty dang slight so you really gotta look at them close to see it.20210904_221119.jpg

Btw, what I did was to use the tip of my CA bottle to smear a small drop or two of glue on the mesh, then quickly run a paper towel over it as if I were forcing air bubbles from decals. I had a couple goofs that were easily fixed but it went far better than I thought. I am worried that there could be spots where the glue filled in the mesh though, mainly with the nacelle grills.
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Speaking of, I had to file the burrs off them holding them in hand cos I was worried I might crease them if I filed them with the micro vise due to their length. Then I used my mini pliers to bend the edges with fold lines.
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Then I used the same process to glue them down. As said, I am somewhat worried that the glue may have filled in the holes. They SEEM ok though.
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Next up is to see if the shuttlebay photoetch is compatible with the 3d printed one. I may not even need to that photoetch as the printed part is more accurate, but we shall see.

EDIT: GET THE LIGHT KIT WEDNESDAY!!!
 
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So looking at the shuttlebay etch, the only thing I thought was actually of use is the door leading to the cargo area. So after three tries I got the sucker glued on. The first try it got stuck to my tweezers and almost bent in half, and the second time it shifted right as the glue set and I had to CAREFULLY pry it off, sand down both the molded on door and the back of the etched part and try again. It still shifted slightly, but less than the second try and after filing down the bottom edge, when its sitting on the hangar deck its barely noticable at all.
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Speaking of the deckplate, it has a HORRIBLE pair of indents in the floor. I got them puttied over and will sand em down once set. Then I gotta lightblock both parts, paint, decal and start laying out the clear sheet for the bay interior windows.
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That printed shuttlebay looks awesome. Photoetch can be fiddly to work with for sure but you seem to be handling it pretty well. Did you get the shadowcasters with your photoetch? They came with the Paragrafix set I got:

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USS Enterprise 1/350 Scale - Shuttle Bay Shadow Casters by Steve J, on Flickr

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IMG_4441 by Steve J, on Flickr
Yes I did. I am gonna throw both them and some of the etched people up in the windows and obviously use the etched people on the bridge. Got Kirk in his chair already.
 
Been working on the shuttlebay and shuttle. Primed and lightblocked the bay and floor this morning, and have the basecoat of dark gull grey on, which to my eye is a dead match to the color guide. This has been brushpainted btw. I am borrowing a technique from the old comedy/how to show Furniture On The Mend/Furniture To Go. Joe Larreio, one of the two hosts(Ed Feldman being the other) once showed a technique he uses to smooth latex paints by using a large soft brush to gently run over the paint after being painted onto a surface, which knocks down the ridges from the first brush and blends it all together. If done right it eliminates all brushstrokes and looks sprayed.

So I decided to try it... and it works great! With hobby acrylics you do have to let it set up a minute or two first though. But look at dis:20210905_202937.jpg20210905_202958.jpg

Will do a couple more coats to both, lightly sand the floor, seal both then build up the courage to try painting the tan on the walls.

And the shuttle has gotten it's second coat of lightblocking...20210905_203001.jpg

And yes, it has an interior! I am not gonna try to go nuts with the interior but will try to get the correct basic colors down. I plan to drill a hole on the non hatch side of the upper rear hull so I can feed a fiber optic or two in. The plan is to have it set up such that when you are looking straight into the shuttlebay the shuttle will be faceing the door, but turned just enough to see the open hatch and the interior. I will also throw a couple people in too.
 
So I am starting to think some more about the display aspect again... my plan is that I'd like to mount it to an endtable, but none are exactly what I want. I can find pricewise what I want, something cheap and simple, but ideally I'd like it to be a box like endtable.

My GF had the idea of packing some kind of weights into the PL base dome and gluing that to a large plaque like what I used on the Dragonslayer kit. I must admit it has me tempted, but I don't really know what I'd use for the weights in the dome. I suppose maybe just get some heavy metal chunks and epoxy them in...
 
lead shot
the smaller the better so there's more lead than space for epoxy
 
lead shot
the smaller the better so there's more lead than space for epoxy
How pricey is it? I don't wanna be spending a ton of money on doing that. I still have supplies to get and as you know from our private convos I have other priorities too.
 
IDK , I have buckets of the stuff .
A gun shop that sells reloading gear would probably be the cheapest .
I just looked at Walmart's website but they look pricey for fishing weights , dive weights etc ....
Someone that sells fishing gear or buckshot near you .
 
Weight weighs , LOL . So shipping $$

How bout where you work ? Isn't there a ton of shavings everyday ?
 

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