What I Have Learned So Far

[durangod]

With my second model done (1 metal, 1 plastic) here is what i have learned so far.

IMO Model glue is not good for large or heavy holds, superglue required to really hold that stuff together. Model glue is great for glueing smaller parts and to save having glue marks but for heavy and larger pieces, IMO super glue is better to use than model glue.

Now i understand why model makers wait to paint things after the build. I had a really hard time with paint getting into places i did not want and that made glueing things more challenging.

Always "every single time" put the cap back on the pen knife when you set it down. I did not and i picked it up and went to remove the lid (which was already off) and stuck the knife right in my finger, not a good experience.

Spread the word to new modlers about liquid masking tape, its as important as glue IMO. I watched a bunch of beginner videos before i started the hobby and noone ever mentioned it. Then i just happened to be looking for something else on ebay and i was like OMG no way, ordered 3 bottles. I had no idea liquid mask was even a product.

I bought a bottle of mod podge because i thought i needed it. Now unless i do a diorama i have no clue what i would even use it for.

Have not used my spray gun yet, i got the testors spray system that you hook the bottle to the gun and it uses a can of air. I learned to use it inside i have to build a paint booth with a fan to keep the air clean. Luckily i live in my RV so since i never use the stove, i can use the stove fan. I just need a box and a filter.

I learned this is an expensive hobby when it comes to supplies.

I learned metal models are really not for me, they are ok but i am not fussy enough to get the parts bent just perfectly, plus i tend to break about of parts by bending too much. I got a soldering iron in case i have another go at it so i dont have to fuss so much with glue i can just solder the stuff together.

But i think one of the most important lessons (other than the knife thing) is to take my time, i tend to rush to get it done and i dont know why.

 

[urumomo]

" IMO Model glue is not good for large or heavy holds, superglue required to really hold that stuff together. Model glue is great for glueing smaller parts and to save having glue marks but for heavy and larger pieces, IMO super glue is better to use than model glue. "

Waht cement are you using and how are you using it ?
because a proper solvent weld is much stronger than a CA joint

 

[durangod]

tamiya ultra thin. I put it on the part and put it together, small to medium parts hold, large parts tend to fall off after some time. It could be that i am not covering all surfaces on large parts, i feel i dont have the time to put it all over so i just do alittle on each side. Maybe thats it.

 

[urumomo]

That should be placed with capillary flow .
Hold the parts together , keep your skin away from the joint itself or use spring clamps etc , then run the applicator brush along the joint and the solvent will get sucked in and weld the joint .

 

[urumomo]

Welding really long joints like aircraft wing halves or ship hull halves , you can do it in stages .
Hold the joint tight for 1/2 a minute or 2 before moving on to the rest of the joint .
Makes things easier -- and less stressful

 

[durangod]

i tried that method @urumomo on the hull n deck of this ship thanks so much it works as you said

I also think i have solved part of the reason parts were flying. Seems my tweezers had gotten a buildup of hard gunk on the inside where it was supposed to be flat but it was rounded over. Once i shaved the gunk off which made it flat again, these guns are going together quick n easy. 4 parts, base, supports, and two guns. That was certainly part of the issue.

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

So much to say….


I use CA on certain situations. I won't use it for everyday applications. I also use both Testors orange tube glue and Tamiya liquid glue. However, my favorite liquid glue is Deluxe 10 second liquid glue. Stick with model glue more than relying on super glue. One strong advise… DO NOT a use CA glue/super glue on clear parts!!!!! CA glue/super glue will fog them.

You say modelers wait to paint when they build. Not necessarily. On aircraft kits, I will build the cockpit then paint it before gluing it to the fuselage halves. I'll install the control stick (painted first of course) after most of the cockpit is painted. I will install the canopy after masking it to the fuselage. I don't remove it until all the decals are applied and the final coat of clear is sprayed on. I often leave off the landing gear struts til the very last.

Car kits are different. Paint the interior and body separate. Do leave the windshield off though. Install that once the body is painted and cured.

Armor kits are easy. No need to worry about interior painting - you're not gonna see it anyway.

Bomber kits, I almost never paint the middle to rear sections. Why waste paint when you're not gonna see it. Bomb bays I will if I'm displaying it open.

Liquid masking agent…. I hate them! Vallejo brand is pure garbage. I think they're a waste of money.I'd rather spend on tape mask or do my own using Frog Yellow Painter tape. More economical and cheaper than Tamiya tape. You'll thank me later why I recommend Frog Painter tape.

Save your money on canned air. They're the biggest money pit of them all. Buy yourself a decent air compressor and airbrush. I own a Paasche single action AB and an Iwata dual action and Badger dual action AB.

Expansive hobby? Not really. Sure Model kits can be expensive depending on the brand. Once you gather the basic tools, supplies, paints. I use simple nail care sanding sticks at Walmart. Looks around, you'll find something you can use without going broke.

Hobby knife…

Find a set with various blades and two types of handles. They're great.

On a final note…

Head over to www.Scalehobbyist.com

That is my #1 go-to hobby online store. Cheaper than most other online hobby stores, maybe even cheaper than your LHS. Other sites I'll go to are:

www.Hobbylinc.com
www.Spruebrothers.com
www.squadron.com
www.michtoy.com - a great place to find a wide variety of tools, glues, paints and paint supplies, and whatnot. Check it out. You'll be surprised what you can find there for all your hobby needs not found anywhere else.

But, Scalehobbyist is where I do most of my shopping needs for kits and supplies. You can't beat them with their prices.

As far as Mod Podge… save your money on it unless you're planning on building a diorama often. It's a glue for terrain objects (grass, mud/dirt, snow, etc…)

 

[durangod]

@BlackSheepTwoOneFour thank you so much, great info and thank you for taking the time to share.

 

[durangod]

this week i learned that with all the investment in producing a scale model product, some MFG take the time to add text tips in the instructions about what to pay attention to so it goes on correctly, and some MFG could'nt care less if you get it right or not.

I learned that some kits have intentional extra parts in case the carpet monster gets fed and some dont bother.

I learned that when you mess up there is always a way to make it work out and that a mistake is not the disaster i thought it would be. Actually sometimes its a blessing.

 

[Pantherman]

this week i learned that with all the investment in producing a scale model product, some MFG take the time to add text tips in the instructions about what to pay attention to so it goes on correctly, and some MFG could'nt care less if you get it right or not.

I learned that some kits have intentional extra parts in case the carpet monster gets fed and some dont bother.

I learned that when you mess up there is always a way to make it work out and that a mistake is not the disaster i thought it would be. Actually sometimes its a blessing.

If we don't make mistakes then we don't learn how to do it correctly / better next time.

Then again what we see as a monumental error, others don't even notice or care. I work on the principle that if it's going to bother me when it's finished then I better fix it now.

As long as I'm having fun building then it's OK with me. Pantherman

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

I usually worry about total accuracies, what to watch out for, or these so-call experts; aka: rivet counters say. I look at it this way… I build for my enjoyment. I'm not entering any IPMS contests - which is widely political and fickle depending on the judges.

As Panther mentioned, we all made mistakes and learn from them. That's the beauty of this hobby. Build for your enjoyment.

I tend to be a stickler on myself to figure out which color looks close enough for me. I often look at the instruction guide color assignments. Most of the time they'll list the paint brand number of their color line. I'll refer to paint4models to cross reference on their Federal Standard number. I may have multiple colors of FS in different paint brand. I often find myself making paint samples and determine my choice which to use.

Sometimes, I'll research the correct color of the subject online. You'd be surprised what kind of information (or misinformation) you'll find.

 

[durangod]

i guess to me it would be logical for the product investment due dilligence to have lets say 100 people build the kit and make notes of trouble spots and then use the aggrigate of that and add text hints to the instructions. But some MFG seem not to care about that.

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

Not that they don't care, they just don't pick upon it. Especially if their molds aren't updated.

 

[durangod]

Today i learned that diving into paint removal is like asking someone to explain what a widget looks like. LOL

There are different types of plastics as well as different recipes for paint types (one acrylic may not be the same recipe as another acrylic even of same color). All react differently to different paint removers and chemicals.

The bottom line is use what you have in the house first that is safe for plastic ie rubbing alchohol. Then try a different product until you find the one that works for your project.

If it does not work then it may work on the next project.

For me i used some gritty hand cleaner and soap and water. Then went to half thinner and half simple green. Then rubbing alchohol. Each step removed some, and some more than others. Trial and error.

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

To remove paint, I used to use Easy Off Oven Cleaner and let the plastic sit in a small covered tote. Now there is something a bit less smelly than Easy Off Oven Cleaner called Purple Power of Super Clean (I forget now) that's not as harsh on our nose and plastic.

 

[urumomo]

I know I'm not supposed to bring up anything about chemistry since evidently everyone here is too stupid to understand it and , more importantly , they just don't care .
but ,
Both oven cleaner and Super Clean contain sodium hydroxide as the primary ingredient .
Paint strippers too .
The concentrations differ in each product .
Sodium hydroxide will remove all paints , acrylic or alkyd , and is safe on all plastics .

 

[Dminor9]

I know I'm not supposed to bring up anything about chemistry since evidently everyone here is too stupid to understand it and , more importantly , they just don't care .
but ,
Both oven cleaner and Super Clean contain sodium hydroxide as the primary ingredient .
Paint strippers too .
The concentrations differ in each product .
Sodium hydroxide will remove all paints , acrylic or alkyd , and is safe on all plastics .

I for one, totally understand the chemistry you explain every so often. I took 2 years of Chemical Technology at a Vo-Tech school in my younger days. So please never apologize for explaining the chemistry of paint, solvents, cleaners, glues etc. I enjoy it.

 

[urumomo]

No , no , I've been told repeatedly by mr sheep that no ones cares about actually understanding anything .
Just again yesterday , in fact .
in this thread : https://www.scalemodeladdict.com/threads/paint.15757/

I don't believe this of course .
It's why I keep running my " blowhard " mouth about it .
The whole " teach a man to fish .." principle .

 

[Pantherman]

No , no , I've been told repeatedly by mr sheep that no ones cares about actually understanding anything .
Just again yesterday , in fact .
in this thread : https://www.scalemodeladdict.com/threads/paint.15757/

I don't believe this of course .
It's why I keep running my " blowhard " mouth about it .
The whole " teach a man to fish .." principle .

I like the explanation of how the various products work. Chemistry (and electronics) are a complete mystery to me. I suppose I should try to learn more but I really only need to know enough at the time to make what I'm doing, work. Please keep explaining it to us (not so sharp) modelers. Pantherman

 

[durangod]

I feel the same, please dont stop explaining. Like @Pantherman i usually only learn what i need to know to get what i am doing done, so it is very task related. However, those little bits of data that you share could come back from memory when needed, so please continue.