What would you do with these paints?

[EZoolander]

I started getting back into model building 3 years ago or so, and have gone through various stages with paints. I started with cheap acrylics, thinned with water, in the airbrush. Then I moved to Tamiya acrylics, then started messing with enamels, but had a love/hate relationship with them because I didn't know how to properly thin them. Then I started experimenting with Lacquers (and they are by far my favorite as of yet).

But, I've got this huge amount of these cheapo acrylics that I don't use.

You can kinda see them in the background of this pic.


I don't want to be wasteful, however, and just throw them away.

But I don't use them...lol

What would you do?

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

Those crafts paints? Toss'em or someone on here might take them off your hands.

Enamels… I'll take them. I see them in the background.

 

[GaryG64]

I started getting back into model building 3 years ago or so, and have gone through various stages with paints. I started with cheap acrylics, thinned with water, in the airbrush. Then I moved to Tamiya acrylics, then started messing with enamels, but had a love/hate relationship with them because I didn't know how to properly thin them. Then I started experimenting with Lacquers (and they are by far my favorite as of yet).

But, I've got this huge amount of these cheapo acrylics that I don't use.

You can kinda see them in the background of this pic.
View attachment 118636

I don't want to be wasteful, however, and just throw them away.

But I don't use them...lol

What would you do?

I love the acrylics.id hate to see them go in the bin.
How much do you want for them, because I surely would use them.

 

[the Baron]

I use Tamiya acrylics, and here is my experience:

• they need to be thinned, for best results. That goes for airbrushing and for hand-brushing
• for hand-brushing, I get my best results using Tamiya's proprietary acrylic thinner, X-20A
• for airbrushing, I also use the X-20A, but have used lacquer thinner (a brand sold in auto supply stores, and Rustoleum's lacquer thinner) with good results

I use isopropyl to clean the paintbrushes and the airbrush. I also run lacquer thinner through my airbrush as necessary, for cleaning.

Now, this is my own experience. I do not challenge those who say they use water, or isopropyl, to thin Tamiya's acrylics. Or those who use other products beyond those. Just that I did not get the best results when I used water or isopropyl to thin Tamiya's acrylics. In the end, you really have to try it for yourself and see what works best for you.

As for the other acrylics you have accumulated, I wouldn't throw them out. My Dutchy sense wouldn't let me do that-never waste anything. I would keep them and use them for things like weathering, making washes, etc, and use them up that way. Or offer them to other modelers or hobbyists. I have other brands of acrylics in my paintbox, too, both water-soluable and others. I use Andrea and Vallejo Model Color, Lifecolor, and craft-store brands Americana, Apple Barrel, and Folk Art-all of which are water-soluable and I use them with my wet palette. I also have a dwindling supply of Model Master acrylics (as well as enamels) and some old Pactra acrylic enamels (this one can be thinned with water and with isopropyl).

I also have a similar mix of brands of enamels, lacquers, and oils. All accumulated over years.

 

[BattleScale Collectica]

I occasionally use some of the cheaper "craft" acrylics for small details / wash or when I want a different texture between accessories. that's my 2 cents...

 

[the Baron]

I occasionally use some of the cheaper "craft" acrylics for small details / wash or when I want a different texture between accessories. that's my 2 cents...

I tried airbrushing one once, just to see how it came out. It was a light blue that I used on a F-G50. I thinned it with water; isopropyl probably would have worked as well. It airbrushed easily enough, but when the paint dried, the finish was a little rough. I figured the pigments are coarser with the craft store brands than with brands made specifically for modeling. If I ever try airbrushing them again, I'll take a step to let the paint sit for a bit and let some of the pigment settle out, then shoot it.
I agree with you about varying the texture-out of the bottle, they're great for armor, because of that roughness. Good on Maschinen Krieger subjects, too, for the texture.

 

[BattleScale Collectica]

I tried airbrushing one once, just to see how it came out. It was a light blue that I used on a F-G50. I thinned it with water; isopropyl probably would have worked as well. It airbrushed easily enough, but when the paint dried, the finish was a little rough. I figured the pigments are coarser with the craft store brands than with brands made specifically for modeling. If I ever try airbrushing them again, I'll take a step to let the paint sit for a bit and let some of the pigment settle out, then shoot it.
I agree with you about varying the texture-out of the bottle, they're great for armor, because of that roughness. Good on Maschinen Krieger subjects, too, for the texture.

You can also strain some of the larger pigment paints. I usually thin with distilled water too.

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

I use Tamiya acrylics, and here is my experience:

• they need to be thinned, for best results. That goes for airbrushing and for hand-brushing
• for hand-brushing, I get my best results using Tamiya's proprietary acrylic thinner, X-20A
• for airbrushing, I also use the X-20A, but have used lacquer thinner (a brand sold in auto supply stores, and Rustoleum's lacquer thinner) with good results

I use isopropyl to clean the paintbrushes and the airbrush. I also run lacquer thinner through my airbrush as necessary, for cleaning.

Now, this is my own experience. I do not challenge those who say they use water, or isopropyl, to thin Tamiya's acrylics. Or those who use other products beyond those. Just that I did not get the best results when I used water or isopropyl to thin Tamiya's acrylics. In the end, you really have to try it for yourself and see what works best for you.

I thin Tamiya acrylics with either their thinner or lacquer thinner. Tamiya lacquers with obviously lacquer thinner.

However…. I never thin Tamiya acrylics for hand brushing. I never use water or isopropyl alcohol to thin their paint line. I "think" you can use Windex to thin Tamiya acrylics.

One thing you have to remember… not all acrylic paints are alike. PollyScale DO NOT play nice with any type of thinner. Water works best. Once in a while Windex works if I'm feeling daring.

Mr. Color acrylics don't play nice with lacquer thinner. I get spiderwebbing straight out of the airbrush. They work best using Mr.Color thinner.

Testors Model Master acrylics works well with Tamiya thinner and lacquer thinner; Model Master enamels, I'll use either Testors and/or lacquer thinner.

I always use lacquer thinner for a deep clean after each airbrush session. As Baron already mentioned, what works for him works. There's no right or wrong answers - just what works for the individual thru their own findings.

 

[GaryG64]

When I started this hobby, as a boy, all I ever knew was Testors. Tiny little jars of paint which has a strong odor. Phew!

When I came back to kit building I combined thetwo mideas, Testors and craft acrylics, and also Model Master paints.

After watching so many videos and reading information forums I learned about Vallejo and Vallejo Air, which is about 90 of the 100+ bottles of paints I have accumulated.
I choose Vallejo Air, because I am not good at thinning acrylics or enamels, and the acrylics are easier for me.

It's all personal preference.

 

[Pantherman]

When I started this hobby, as a boy, all I ever knew was Testors. Tiny little jars of paint which has a strong odor. Phew!

When I came back to kit building I combined thetwo mideas, Testors and craft acrylics, and also Model Master paints.

After watching so many videos and reading information forums I learned about Vallejo and Vallejo Air, which is about 90 of the 100+ bottles of paints I have accumulated.
I choose Vallejo Air, because I am not good at thinning acrylics or enamels, and the acrylics are easier for me.

It's all personal preference.

I agree with Gary, vallejo are my "go to" paint for spraying and hand brushing. Pantherman

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

A couple knocks on Vallejo is their military color shades tend to be waay off. The other is they leave a vinyl/rubbery feel and look when dry. I know this from experience. But hey… if Vallejo is your golden goose, good on you. I personally hate Vallejo. I highly recommend you try out other brands.

That's why I have a large variety of paint brands in my stash. Testors small bottles Model Master acrylics and enamels,AK Intersactive Real Color (this is by far THE best paint line, PERIOD), PollyScale, PollyScale Railroad Colors, Tamiya (acrylics and lacquer), Mission Models (they scratch easily so a primer coat is recommended), Gunze/Mr. Color, Akah - The best Russian colors out there, and Humbrol.

 

[plastickjunkie]

I do not like acrylics specially Vallejo. It's hard to spray out of an xtra thin nozzle, hard to get thin even color demarcation lines and leaves a rubbery like finish. Some of their colors are off and not accurate. I love MM enamels, colors are accurate and are joy to spray. Properly thinned, I can shoot hairline thin lines all day long with out any tip dry, spitting or skipping. Unfortunately they are discontinued so I have been trying out other products like lacquers which work pretty good.
I suggest keeping the craft paints. They work really well when doing groundwork and other jobs like touch ups etc.

 

[MJY65]

I've tossed several hundred bottles of paints that don't perform the way I want them to. I emptied them into a couple of gallon jugs and took it to the local hazardous waste collection point. I know that the acrylics probably aren't that bad, but I don't want them altering the chemistry of a home septic system.

 

[Jim62]

I'd toss them if I wasn't going to use them. I wouldn't call that wasteful, the waste was buying them in the first place. I did that once as well just to give them a try. I prefer paints made for the hobby as well as thinners made for the paint I am using. I find it funny when we spend all the money we spend on our stash and then want to save a few dimes using home brewed concoctions we see on the internet. Yep I went through all that too. The only thing I don't use is airbrush cleaners sold for the hobby. I use Tamiya acrylics and IPA cleans that out of the airbrush extremely well.

 

[MJY65]

The only thing I don't use is airbrush cleaners sold for the hobby. I use Tamiya acrylics and IPA cleans that out of the airbrush extremely well.

My cleaners have evolved also. I mainly used lacquer and started off with Mr Hobby Tool Cleaner. Not cheap. Tried hardware store lacquer thinner next. Works pretty well, but occasionally would react poorly with the next thing through the airbrush if not flushed out with hobby thinners. Current product is big box store acetone in gallon cans. The cost is roughly 1/6 that of "official" airbrush cleaners.

 

[Littlemarten]

I do not like acrylics specially Vallejo. It's hard to spray out of an xtra thin nozzle, hard to get thin even color demarcation lines and leaves a rubbery like finish. Some of their colors are off and not accurate. I love MM enamels, colors are accurate and are joy to spray. Properly thinned, I can shoot hairline thin lines all day long with out any tip dry, spitting or skipping. Unfortunately they are discontinued so I have been trying out other products like lacquers which work pretty good.
I suggest keeping the craft paints. They work really well when doing groundwork and other jobs like touch ups etc.

I use Vallejo almost exclusively and love their paints—except their gloss clear. You cannot expect acrylics to behave like the enamels we grew up with. Also, Vallejo makes several lines of paint: some are the correct viscosity for brush painting (e.g., Panzer Aces) and others are made for airbrushing (Vallejo Air). The chemistry of most acrylics is entirely different from enamels. The exceptions are Tamiya and Gunze, which are similar to lacquers, though they are not true lacquers. Good quality acrylics can and do perform as well as any other coating, but you have to learn how to use them.

 

[Pantherman]

I use Vallejo almost exclusively and love their paints—except their gloss clear. You cannot expect acrylics to behave like the enamels we grew up with. Also, Vallejo makes several lines of paint: some are the correct viscosity for brush painting (e.g., Panzer Aces) and others are made for airbrushing (Vallejo Air). The chemistry of most acrylics is entirely different from enamels. The exceptions are Tamiya and Gunze, which are similar to lacquers, though they are not true lacquers. Good quality acrylics can and do perform as well as any other coating, but you have to learn how to use them.

Totally agree. I love using vallejo. Pantherman