Question about coating a clear canopy in Future

[SF_Ziggurat]

Greetings! My first post in ages. I have a (probably stupid) Future question. I've read up on cleaning scratched clear parts with sanding and polishing, and then dipping in Future to bring back the clear part back to life.

A couple of tests later, and I think I have the first part down. I discovered what others had said: you really, really have to clean the part of all possible dirt, grease, specks, etc., for the Future to cover smoothly.

Now I'm down to two final problems:

1/ How to hold or anchor the part (a 1/72 scale aircraft canopy in this instance) while you dip it in the Future, and then for drying? I used tweezers for my tests, but this won't work for the real thing.

2/ how to successfully wick off the excess drips? My attempts at wicking the excess off the test pieces did not get rid of the final glob at the bottom, not really visible until the piece fully dried.

Any suggestions appreciated! (And yes, I'm still using an actual old bottle of Future!) I’m determined to solve this problem, because the Future really does restore scratched clear plastic well - I was very impressed.

SF_Ziggurat

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

I usually airbrush Future on my canopy parts. No airbrush? Handbrush method works too. Doesn’t leave brush marks behind. I’m not one to dip in Future and let excess drip off.

My method is using a toothpick or sprue with a blob of poster tack to hold canopy parts.

 

[SF_Ziggurat]

I usually airbrush Future on my canopy parts. No airbrush? Handbrush method works too. Doesn’t leave brush marks behind. I’m not one to dip in Future and let excess drip off.

My method is using a toothpick or sprue with a blob of poster tack to hold canopy parts.

Thanks for the info. I did try using an airbrush with Future, and for some reason, the finish was pebbly, not smooth. Maybe I need multiple coats? Which is why I tried dipping. But brushing works, with no visible lines? I’ll have to experiment with that. Also, a good tip on holding the canopy with a sprue and a touch of poster tack. Much appreciated.

 

[Jim62]

I hold them by the frame with tweezers since that ends up painted, dip them in pledge, shake off the excess, put them on a piece of paper and cover them with an empty container to dry. I have never wash or cleaned a canopy prior to doing this and never had a problem. I also don't wash the model parts before assembly either. Haven't ever had an issue on either point.

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

Hmm… I’m wondering maybe your airbrush wasn’t thoroughly cleaned that’s the cause of pepply finish. A clog from residual dried paint could also be the cause. I don’t know. I never experienced pepply finish thru my airbrush when I used Future in the past.

Maybe try wiping the canopy down with alcohol prior to airbrushing Future. Worth a try.

 

[SF_Ziggurat]

I hold them by the frame with tweezers since that ends up painted, dip them in pledge, shake off the excess, put them on a piece of paper and cover them with an empty container to dry. I have never wash or cleaned a canopy prior to doing this and never had a problem. I also don't wash the model parts before assembly either. Haven't ever had an issue on either point.

Thanks, this is interesting. So you paint the silver frame after you Pledge? In that case, tweezers would work. And paper will wick up the extra without leaving a rough edge? Much appreciated, more tests are required!

 

[SF_Ziggurat]

Hmm… I’m wondering maybe your airbrush wasn’t thoroughly cleaned that’s the cause of pepply finish. A clog from residual dried paint could also be the cause. I don’t know. I never experienced pepply finish thru my airbrush when I used Future in the past.

Maybe try wiping the canopy down with alcohol prior to airbrushing Future. Worth a try.

I’ll try cleaning the canopy with alcohol. I know a lot of people get smooth finishes with airbrushing Future.

 

[Jim62]

Thanks, this is interesting. So you paint the silver frame after you Pledge? In that case, tweezers would work. And paper will wick up the extra without leaving a rough edge? Much appreciated, more tests are required!

You're welcome

 

[Jim62]

Sorry I forgot to answer your question. I always paint the canopy frame after the Pledge is applied and allowed to dry. That's when I mask it and then paint. The best reason to do it this way is if you screw up the frame painting you can just let your canopy soak in windex and it removes the future along with any paint on top of it so you can give it another try. I paint with Tamiya acrylics which also are removable with windex. Not sure how other paints would react to it.

 

[SF_Ziggurat]

Sorry I forgot to answer your question. I always paint the canopy frame after the Pledge is applied and allowed to dry. That's when I mask it and then paint. The best reason to do it this way is if you screw up the frame painting you can just let your canopy soak in windex and it removes the future along with any paint on top of it so you can give it another try. I paint with Tamiya acrylics which also are removable with windex. Not sure how other paints would react to it.

That is interesting! I did not know you could remove the Future. I’ll have to try that on a test piece. Thank you!

 

[the Baron]

When I dip a canopy, I just use a tweezers to hold it while I dip it, and while the excess runs off back into whatever container I happen to use. Then I place the piece on a piece of paper towel to let the remaining excess to wick away and I stick this into an airtight container, like the plastic soup containers you get with Chinese takeout. That keeps the dust off till the Future sets up.
I have also brushed it on; light coats are best, and the liquid self-levels, too. If you do get drips or any pooling, you can use a weak ammonia solution (like Windex or other window cleaners, though check the labels, because there are formulas without ammonia) to dissolve them, as Jim62 described, wick away excess, then let the acrylic cure again.