Question about coating a clear canopy in Future

[SF_Ziggurat]

Greetings! My first post in ages. I have a (probably stupid) Future question. I've read up on cleaning scratched clear parts with sanding and polishing, and then dipping in Future to bring back the clear part back to life.

A couple of tests later, and I think I have the first part down. I discovered what others had said: you really, really have to clean the part of all possible dirt, grease, specks, etc., for the Future to cover smoothly.

Now I'm down to two final problems:

1/ How to hold or anchor the part (a 1/72 scale aircraft canopy in this instance) while you dip it in the Future, and then for drying? I used tweezers for my tests, but this won't work for the real thing.

2/ how to successfully wick off the excess drips? My attempts at wicking the excess off the test pieces did not get rid of the final glob at the bottom, not really visible until the piece fully dried.

Any suggestions appreciated! (And yes, I'm still using an actual old bottle of Future!) I'm determined to solve this problem, because the Future really does restore scratched clear plastic well - I was very impressed.

SF_Ziggurat

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

I usually airbrush Future on my canopy parts. No airbrush? Handbrush method works too. Doesn't leave brush marks behind. I'm not one to dip in Future and let excess drip off.

My method is using a toothpick or sprue with a blob of poster tack to hold canopy parts.

 

[SF_Ziggurat]

I usually airbrush Future on my canopy parts. No airbrush? Handbrush method works too. Doesn't leave brush marks behind. I'm not one to dip in Future and let excess drip off.

My method is using a toothpick or sprue with a blob of poster tack to hold canopy parts.

Thanks for the info. I did try using an airbrush with Future, and for some reason, the finish was pebbly, not smooth. Maybe I need multiple coats? Which is why I tried dipping. But brushing works, with no visible lines? I'll have to experiment with that. Also, a good tip on holding the canopy with a sprue and a touch of poster tack. Much appreciated.

 

[Jim62]

I hold them by the frame with tweezers since that ends up painted, dip them in pledge, shake off the excess, put them on a piece of paper and cover them with an empty container to dry. I have never wash or cleaned a canopy prior to doing this and never had a problem. I also don't wash the model parts before assembly either. Haven't ever had an issue on either point.

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

Hmm… I'm wondering maybe your airbrush wasn't thoroughly cleaned that's the cause of pepply finish. A clog from residual dried paint could also be the cause. I don't know. I never experienced pepply finish thru my airbrush when I used Future in the past.

Maybe try wiping the canopy down with alcohol prior to airbrushing Future. Worth a try.

 

[SF_Ziggurat]

I hold them by the frame with tweezers since that ends up painted, dip them in pledge, shake off the excess, put them on a piece of paper and cover them with an empty container to dry. I have never wash or cleaned a canopy prior to doing this and never had a problem. I also don't wash the model parts before assembly either. Haven't ever had an issue on either point.

Thanks, this is interesting. So you paint the silver frame after you Pledge? In that case, tweezers would work. And paper will wick up the extra without leaving a rough edge? Much appreciated, more tests are required!

 

[SF_Ziggurat]

Hmm… I'm wondering maybe your airbrush wasn't thoroughly cleaned that's the cause of pepply finish. A clog from residual dried paint could also be the cause. I don't know. I never experienced pepply finish thru my airbrush when I used Future in the past.

Maybe try wiping the canopy down with alcohol prior to airbrushing Future. Worth a try.

I'll try cleaning the canopy with alcohol. I know a lot of people get smooth finishes with airbrushing Future.

 

[Jim62]

Thanks, this is interesting. So you paint the silver frame after you Pledge? In that case, tweezers would work. And paper will wick up the extra without leaving a rough edge? Much appreciated, more tests are required!

You're welcome

 

[Jim62]

Sorry I forgot to answer your question. I always paint the canopy frame after the Pledge is applied and allowed to dry. That's when I mask it and then paint. The best reason to do it this way is if you screw up the frame painting you can just let your canopy soak in windex and it removes the future along with any paint on top of it so you can give it another try. I paint with Tamiya acrylics which also are removable with windex. Not sure how other paints would react to it.

 

[SF_Ziggurat]

Sorry I forgot to answer your question. I always paint the canopy frame after the Pledge is applied and allowed to dry. That's when I mask it and then paint. The best reason to do it this way is if you screw up the frame painting you can just let your canopy soak in windex and it removes the future along with any paint on top of it so you can give it another try. I paint with Tamiya acrylics which also are removable with windex. Not sure how other paints would react to it.

That is interesting! I did not know you could remove the Future. I'll have to try that on a test piece. Thank you!

 

[the Baron]

When I dip a canopy, I just use a tweezers to hold it while I dip it, and while the excess runs off back into whatever container I happen to use. Then I place the piece on a piece of paper towel to let the remaining excess to wick away and I stick this into an airtight container, like the plastic soup containers you get with Chinese takeout. That keeps the dust off till the Future sets up.
I have also brushed it on; light coats are best, and the liquid self-levels, too. If you do get drips or any pooling, you can use a weak ammonia solution (like Windex or other window cleaners, though check the labels, because there are formulas without ammonia) to dissolve them, as Jim62 described, wick away excess, then let the acrylic cure again.

 

[SF_Ziggurat]

When I dip a canopy, I just use a tweezers to hold it while I dip it, and while the excess runs off back into whatever container I happen to use. Then I place the piece on a piece of paper towel to let the remaining excess to wick away and I stick this into an airtight container, like the plastic soup containers you get with Chinese takeout. That keeps the dust off till the Future sets up.
I have also brushed it on; light coats are best, and the liquid self-levels, too. If you do get drips or any pooling, you can use a weak ammonia solution (like Windex or other window cleaners, though check the labels, because there are formulas without ammonia) to dissolve them, as Jim62 described, wick away excess, then let the acrylic cure again.

This is my plan on the next test piece - thank you!

 

[RocketRanger]

I use very "pointy" tweezers and dip the part into a plastic 35mm film canister (remember those?) filled with Future. The cap forms an airtight seal so the Future can be reused over and over. I recently discovered that Future can also be diluted with distilled water - about 70% Future mixed with 30% DISTILLED water. This makes a thinner dipping liquid that drains off more completely and leaves a thinner coat of Future on the part. The procedure for dipping clear parts in Future starts by preparing a small plastic storage container with a lid for drying the part. The lid keeps the dust off the part while it's drying. A Kleenex (facial tissue) is then placed flat in the bottom of the container to support the part while drying and absorb the excess Future. Make sure to do this step first because if you don't, you will wish you had after dipping ;^). Then remove any dust or sanding particles by gently rubbing the clear part with a microfiber cloth. Next, hold the part very close to the edge with a fine, pointy tweezer. Slowly dip the part in the Future so it adheres to the part, then slowly pull the part out so the Future has time to flow back into the container but stop just short of pulling it all the way out, then repeat this another two or three times. On the final dip, pull the part out slowly and when the part is almost all the way out, hold the bottom edge in the Future for a few seconds so that the surface tension pulls the "big drop" of Future off the bottom of the part into the surface of the Future. While the part is still being held with tweezers, touch the edges of the part with the corner or edge of a Kleenex to wick off the excess Future where needed. Then carefully place the part on the Kleenex in the bottom of the storage container on the edges of the part, not the clear center, resting on the Kleenex to wick off any excess Future, then place the lid on the container. Note, the tweezers will not leave a mark on the part unless the Future is starting to dry so the part can be handled with tweezers for a short time after pulling it out of the Future. Sometimes small bubbles can form or particles can be seen on the dried part and another issue I've encountered is Future beading up into drops on the surface of the part caused by mold release grease, polishing wax or finger oil. To fix this, rub the part with a Q-Tip (cotton swab) dipped in ammonia to remove the Future, wash the part with Dawn dishwashing liquid and repeat the Future dipping process. I've been using this method for years and always get great results - and you will too!

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

I use very "pointy" tweezers and dip the part into a plastic 35mm film canister (remember those?) filled with Future. The cap forms an airtight seal so the Future can be reused over and over. I recently discovered that Future can also be diluted with distilled water - about 70% Future mixed with 30% DISTILLED water. This makes a thinner dipping liquid that drains off more completely and leaves a thinner coat of Future on the part. The procedure for dipping clear parts in Future starts by preparing a small plastic storage container with a lid for drying the part. The lid keeps the dust off the part while it's drying. A Kleenex (facial tissue) is then placed flat in the bottom of the container to support the part while drying and absorb the excess Future. Make sure to do this step first because if you don't, you will wish you had after dipping ;^). Then remove any dust or sanding particles by gently rubbing the clear part with a microfiber cloth. Next, hold the part very close to the edge with a fine, pointy tweezer. Slowly dip the part in the Future so it adheres to the part, then slowly pull the part out so the Future has time to flow back into the container but stop just short of pulling it all the way out, then repeat this another two or three times. On the final dip, pull the part out slowly and when the part is almost all the way out, hold the bottom edge in the Future for a few seconds so that the surface tension pulls the "big drop" of Future off the bottom of the part into the surface of the Future. While the part is still being held with tweezers, touch the edges of the part with the corner or edge of a Kleenex to wick off the excess Future where needed. Then carefully place the part on the Kleenex in the bottom of the storage container on the edges of the part, not the clear center, resting on the Kleenex to wick off any excess Future, then place the lid on the container. Note, the tweezers will not leave a mark on the part unless the Future is starting to dry so the part can be handled with tweezers for a short time after pulling it out of the Future. Sometimes small bubbles can form or particles can be seen on the dried part and another issue I've encountered is Future beading up into drops on the surface of the part caused by mold release grease, polishing wax or finger oil. To fix this, rub the part with a Q-Tip (cotton swab) dipped in ammonia to remove the Future, wash the part with Dawn dishwashing liquid and repeat the Future dipping process. I've been using this method for years and always get great results - and you will too!

Meh… I don't dip aircraft canopies in Future unless I have to. The only time I'll use Future if CA glue fogs up my clear parts or if I'm too lazy to use Testors gloss clearcoat. TBH…. I rarely use Future on my builds.

Each to his own I suppose.

 

[SF_Ziggurat]

I use very "pointy" tweezers and dip the part into a plastic 35mm film canister (remember those?) filled with Future. The cap forms an airtight seal so the Future can be reused over and over. I recently discovered that Future can also be diluted with distilled water - about 70% Future mixed with 30% DISTILLED water. This makes a thinner dipping liquid that drains off more completely and leaves a thinner coat of Future on the part. The procedure for dipping clear parts in Future starts by preparing a small plastic storage container with a lid for drying the part. The lid keeps the dust off the part while it's drying. A Kleenex (facial tissue) is then placed flat in the bottom of the container to support the part while drying and absorb the excess Future. Make sure to do this step first because if you don't, you will wish you had after dipping ;^). Then remove any dust or sanding particles by gently rubbing the clear part with a microfiber cloth. Next, hold the part very close to the edge with a fine, pointy tweezer. Slowly dip the part in the Future so it adheres to the part, then slowly pull the part out so the Future has time to flow back into the container but stop just short of pulling it all the way out, then repeat this another two or three times. On the final dip, pull the part out slowly and when the part is almost all the way out, hold the bottom edge in the Future for a few seconds so that the surface tension pulls the "big drop" of Future off the bottom of the part into the surface of the Future. While the part is still being held with tweezers, touch the edges of the part with the corner or edge of a Kleenex to wick off the excess Future where needed. Then carefully place the part on the Kleenex in the bottom of the storage container on the edges of the part, not the clear center, resting on the Kleenex to wick off any excess Future, then place the lid on the container. Note, the tweezers will not leave a mark on the part unless the Future is starting to dry so the part can be handled with tweezers for a short time after pulling it out of the Future. Sometimes small bubbles can form or particles can be seen on the dried part and another issue I've encountered is Future beading up into drops on the surface of the part caused by mold release grease, polishing wax or finger oil. To fix this, rub the part with a Q-Tip (cotton swab) dipped in ammonia to remove the Future, wash the part with Dawn dishwashing liquid and repeat the Future dipping process. I've been using this method for years and always get great results - and you will too!

Wow, thanks for this extremely thorough description of your Future-dipping process. You address two problems I had when trying to dip my canopy. Firstly, I think that slightly diluting the Future as you did would have helped coverage and reduced drippage. Secondly, holding the part in the Future after the last dip would have minimized the glob that still remained at the bottom, even after I wicked. I consider my first attempt to be a partial success, not too bad for a newbie, but next time I will add your excellent tips and hopefully get a better result. Many thanks!

 

[SF_Ziggurat]

Meh… I don't dip aircraft canopies in Future unless I have to. The only time I'll use Future if CA glue fogs up my clear parts or if I'm too lazy to use Testors gloss clearcoat. TBH…. I rarely use Future on my builds.

Each to his own I suppose.

I agree in theory. I'm fine with most of my clear canopies, but this recent one came from a very old kit, and the canopy had been banging around the box for years, and had a lot of surface anomalies. So I tried the Future and it came out fairly well. But in general, I stay away from tricky processes like that because they are nerve-racking to me.