This is great CA glue!

[GaryG64]

Just in case you might not have used these products, or what is black CA glue?

Bare with me as I try to explain as best as I can...

If I got something wrong or if you have additional information about these products please reply with your experience with these products.
In my opinion, Black CA glue is the best stuff. I have seen and heard about this glue from YouTube and research. I learned that it has a rubber polymer blended in this glue. It works well on parts that have some tension in placing some parts. This glue is very forgiving as it has a slight give to the two parts.
To set this quicker I use the Bob Smith industries (bsi) Insta-Set. For that I simply use the liquid from the siphon tube and drop a little on the CA glue, and voilà the parts are set!
I hope this information is helpful.

 

[BarleyBop]

I've been using the other bsi glues , didn't know about the black... tried a bunch of other glues for that type of use! Thanks for the tip!
BTW, also use an accelerator, different brand that was at LHS.
I also have been using bsi un-cure, works great for accidental or mis-positioned glue-ups (including fingers and spills & drips). very runny though, don't let it loose!

lastly, have been using these 'precision glue micro tips' from I'm-a-loony, they are 4" outta the bag, trim to a length that works for you.
Essentially, I haven't recapped those bottles in months... the tube is so small that once the glue rolls back down inside, there isn't enough of an opening to gum up... maybe I'm losing some essential ingredient through evaporation, but I haven't noticed performance issues. I just sit the cap on the end, can't hurt!

 

[GaryG64]

I've been using the other bsi glues , didn't know about the black... tried a bunch of other glues for that type of use! Thanks for the tip!
BTW, also use an accelerator, different brand that was at LHS.
I also have been using bsi un-cure, works great for accidental or mis-positioned glue-ups (including fingers and spills & drips). very runny though, don't let it loose!

lastly, have been using these 'precision glue micro tips' from I'm-a-loony, they are 4" outta the bag, trim to a length that works for you.
Essentially, I haven't recapped those bottles in months... the tube is so small that once the glue rolls back down inside, there isn't enough of an opening to gum up... maybe I'm losing some essential ingredient through evaporation, but I haven't noticed performance issues. I just sit the cap on the end, can't hurt!

View attachment 135603

I never knew about other adhesives, from bsi, thanks for the information!

 

[kevin]

Would you guys recommend these BSI glues for PE parts?

 

[GaryG64]

Would you guys recommend these BSI glues for PE parts?

Absolutely, I would recommend. I'm going to look at purchasing additional product from bsi.

 

[BarleyBop]

Generally, agree with @GaryG64 !

In my limited experience though, PE to PE is not always easy with CA, but I don't think it is a brand issue.

For parts with good surface area contact, thin PE works really well, make sure you line 'em right the first time! My problems are usually with edge to edge, so the thicker CA glues work better for me then.

I have even resorted to so called 'metal' CA, can't say it is any better.

PE to something else works well, and as always, even a small mechanical feature, a raised edge, or slight dimple really helps.

Some guys solder their PE to PE parts. Parts have to be big enough, and I probably haven't done it often enough for a solid opinion. Prepping the PE, the right solder for brass, and the right flux seem to be key.

Prepping the PE for gluing is an important factor too, skin oil will foul things up big time; I have also tried light sanding with fine grit paper or using etching solution to provide a little more tooth.

Lastly, having a drop of accelerator ready can be a game changer, but be prepared for the fact that it acts almost like a 'freeze ray', so the glue may need a gentle sanding to remove bumps or 'spikes' if that bugs you.

 

[kevin]

Thanks for the info. I've only used Krazy Glue bought at convince stores for PE. I've only built kits with minimal PE so far.
I have ship model coming that I'm also going to get one of those aftermarket PE upgrade kits for. Want to use the right stuff.

 

[GaryG64]

Thanks for the info. I've only used Krazy Glue bought at convince stores for PE. I've only built kits with minimal PE so far.
I have ship model coming that I'm also going to get one of those aftermarket PE upgrade kits for. Want to use the right stuff.

My USS Texas battleship had alot of pe parts! I use mainly Gorilla super glue or Loctite. For an extra thin CA glue I use Zap-A-Gap CA+.

 

[kevin]

I was looking at the Zap-a-Gap also, I'll probably get some of that as well.

 

[BarleyBop]

I use mainly Gorilla super glue

yup, lately trying the Gorilla super glue GEL. No verdict as yet.

 

[Littlemarten]

I'm a fan of Mercury Adhesives™ line of CA glues, but I may look into BSI.

 

[BarleyBop]

Mercury Adhesives

Hmmm, haven't seen them here, will keep an eye out.

 

[Littlemarten]

Hmmm, haven't seen them here, will keep an eye out.

Mercury Adhesives, also available on Amazonk, Sprue Bros, and Hobbylinc. Their epoxies are great, and their product support outstanding, at least in my experience.

 

[BarleyBop]

My-my, my my my my!
$44 CDN in Canada.2 oz. On Amazoonie.

And BSI, 1oz, $35

I'll look for it at my LHS!

BTW, following on the Sept thread below on canopy glue, I forgot to mention this guy for clear parts: really does dry crystal clear!



And as I've been reminded... I am in no way affiliated with any of the products or companies I've mentioned.

 

[BarleyBop]

@Littlemarten , score! $9 / 1oz at my LHS