Star Wars Theme Group Build

foenetik said:
Progress pics.. it's been a bit slow because I am using some new mediums (Scenic Woodlands molds, lightweight hydrocal, and sculptamold).

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Expanding your tool box is a good thing. That is one thing I enjoy the most about this hobby, pushing into new areas and knowing the next time it will be better. Looking good so far.
 
Got most of the main build done enough to be able to get the base colors laid down with all the various odd color panels. Testing a few streaking techniques here and there, but I think I need to go a bit darker with the weathering

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here you can see the contrast between the unpainted plastic color of the engine deck and the As-20 color

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blakeh1 said:
Got most of the main build done enough to be able to get the base colors laid down with all the various odd color panels. Testing a few streaking techniques here and there, but I think I need to go a bit darker with the weathering

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here you can see the contrast between the unpainted plastic color of the engine deck and the As-20 color

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It's looking good, it's easier to add darker weathering than to take away. Which model an scale was this kit? I can't wait to see this finished.
 
Nikati said:
The front is mostly finished, just some detailing and a mist coat over everything. Started on the back and the wings. The liquid mask was coming off of the areas that had multiple layers of paint. It also came off easier the thicker the masking was applied. I really like the effect that you are able to get with it. I want to try chipping media at some point. The red and pink I don't believe are the correct shades, but I'm hoping the mist coat will help to at least dull them down more.

You will probably notice on the last picture the tan spots. When I was mixing the yellow I almost dropped the bottle on the floor and spilled almost half of it out. I'm going to have to touch-up the green and gray obviously. Getting more clumsy the older I get.
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Looks like it might be time to change the filter in your spray booth. Just a thought!! ;)
 
banistersmind said:
Lining the engine area with aluminium foil and building the mounts for my "engines" (courtesy of Light My Bricks). For the mounts, I cut a 5mL syringe in half, primed the halves then glued aluminium foil onto them the mounted them into the engine area - lining them up with the exhaust ports. I then glued the light bars in place and ran the wires back to the 2 expansion boards which I've glued in place. I've installed the landing lights in place and the wing lights are in place as well.

Here's a question for the group - should I have the landing lights on the flashing circuit or should I leave them static?

I'm happy with the engine test so far. Still waiting on my Shapeways engine inserts.

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In my opinion, static could be a better choice.
 
TimM63 said:
Looks like it might be time to change the filter in your spray booth. Just a thought!! ;)
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LOL, I actually have a two layer filter. The outer one is one of the cheapy fiber ones that is extremely porous. The inner one is a pleated one for actually filtering. The outer one I put on to catch most of the larger wet paint particles so the the pleated one would not need changed so often. It does look nasty but it actually looks much worse than it is. 1000000400.jpg1000000401.jpg
 
Nikati said:
It's looking good, it's easier to add darker weathering than to take away. Which model an scale was this kit? I can't wait to see this finished.
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This is the Bandai 1/72 "Perfect Grade" version that comes with the light kit and photo-etch plus waterslide decals

They have a cheaper version that did not include the lighting kit or photo-etch and only had "stickers" instead of the water slide decals, but frankly, the difference in price was not really enough to get the "down graded" one, especially since it is stickers
 
blakeh1 said:
This is the Bandai 1/72 "Perfect Grade" version that comes with the light kit and photo-etch plus waterslide decals

They have a cheaper version that did not include the lighting kit or photo-etch and only had "stickers" instead of the water slide decals, but frankly, the difference in price was not really enough to get the "down graded" one, especially since it is stickers
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Nice sounds like the one I got a couple years ago but it only came with water slide. I don't think it came with any photo etch or lights as I bought some etched parts separately at the time. But then that was a few years ago and maybe it did come with some lighting. It has over 600 pieces from what I recall. I am hoping to do mine in a diorama in docking bay 94.

I can't wait to see it finished!
 
ohbejuan said:
For those using Bandai kits a warning. The plastic in Bandai kits can dissolve under enamel thinner. I had this problem when using Tamiya panel liner on my earliest kits. Make sure to seal everything and using the thinner sparingly.
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Since my Y-Wing is vinyl, I cannot use an enamel panel liner either. I used Mr. Hobby's acrylic weathering paint solvent to do a wash. They don't have it listed on their English website, so maybe it's Japan only? There's a way to make your own with acrylic thinner and some detergent or something, but I use this product since it's simple and ready for use straight from the bottle.
 
Clamps released. Glueing the two halves together was probably the most stressful part of the build. The end seams sealed together well but the middle points on each side were persistently recalcitrant and I had to pay more attention to those separately. I left the model overnight and I got there. I got a good seal in the end so I don't think it's going to come apart anytime soon.

I have moved onto applying putty to the seams using a Tamiya basic putty. I was going to thin it down at first because I was worried it would go on rough but after testing it on an area at the rear, I decided to apply it as is. I am pleasantly surprised with the result. With sanding first with an 80 grit, then a 120 grit, the seams have all but disappeared.

One thing which has become apparent - the stabiliser. I've had that in clamps for a couple of weeks in an attempt to straighten the bend in it but it hasn't worked. Now that it is installed, I don't have a lot of options in terms of addressing this. I'm thinking about using a hair dryer and heating it gently and seeing if I can coax it straighter but I'll leave it for now. Over the next week I want to touch up the surface layer and move onto weathering and detailing.

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ohbejuan said:
Coming along really nicely.
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Thanks! The stabiliser warp is really bothering me - I'm trying to put it out of my mind for now although, after I posted, I tried tractioning it with a piece of tape. I doubt it'll work but it's something I guess for now.

I'm thinking about applying some sort of heat treatment on it later but I'll have to be careful as to how I approach it. Last thing I want to do is melt the bloody plastic!

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blakeh1 said:
Got most of the main build done enough to be able to get the base colors laid down with all the various odd color panels. Testing a few streaking techniques here and there, but I think I need to go a bit darker with the weathering

View attachment 120996
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here you can see the contrast between the unpainted plastic color of the engine deck and the As-20 color

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Goddamn I love this ship! You're doing the Lord's work friend! Can I ask, which edition is this?
 
banistersmind said:
Goddamn I love this ship! You're doing the Lord's work friend! Can I ask, which edition is this?
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Thanks!

Bandai did incredible work on it and I am just trying to do their details justice

It is the "Perfect Grade" 1/72. There is a "Standard" edition which is the same, minus the light kit and photo-etch, and only has stickers instead of waterslide decals. My advice is if your willing to spend that much, the price difference between the two works out better to get the one with the extras

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banistersmind said:
Clamps released. Glueing the two halves together was probably the most stressful part of the build. The end seams sealed together well but the middle points on each side were persistently recalcitrant and I had to pay more attention to those separately. I left the model overnight and I got there in the end. I got a good deal I don't think it's going to come apart anytime soon.

I have moved onto applying putty to the seams using a Tamiya basic putty. I was going to thin it down at first because I was worried it would go on rough but after testing it on an area at the rear, I decided to apply it as is. I am pleasantly surprised with the result. With sanding first with an 80 grit, then a 120 grit, the seams have all but disappeared.

One thing which has become apparent - the stabiliser. I've had that in clamps for a couple of weeks in an attempt to straighten the bend in it but it hasn't worked. Now that it is installed, I don't have a lot of options in terms of addressing this. I'm thinking about using a hair dryer and heating it gently and seeing if I can coax it straighter but I'll leave it for now. Over the next week I want to touch up the surface layer and move onto weathering and detailing.

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Those old kits sure were a challenge with the gaps

Looks great though. I really should just scrap plans for adjusting the neck and build as is.
 
blakeh1 said:
Thanks!

Bandai did incredible work on it and I am just trying to do their details justice

It is the "Perfect Grade" 1/72. There is a "Standard" edition which is the same, minus the light kit and photo-etch, and only has stickers instead of waterslide decals. My advice is if your willing to spend that much, the price difference between the two works out better to get the one with the extras

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Oh man! I have only ever seen one of them in the wild - in the box - and it had a hefty price tag on it. I didn't know there were different versions of the kit. I'll be watching your build in earnest.
 
blakeh1 said:
Those old kits sure were a challenge with the gaps

Looks great though. I really should just scrap plans for adjusting the neck and build as is.
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I personally never wanted to make major adjustments to the neck. It just never bothered me. I'd say go for it as it is.
 

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