Desslok's Command Cruiser....

hi grendels. i use tamiya putty sometimes. i use it if i have time to kill because it take hours before you can attempt to sand it. but its not cakey like squadron. though squadron has its good points like fast dry time (AS YOU KNOW!). But tamiya's is more fluid going on and sands well. it does suffer from a little shrinkage. I used it on my SS Tie Fighter build and it cleaned up that resin well as their was a seam i had to fill on 4 sides. It's good for resin as its much stronger than the squadron.
 
i use tamia basic and its fantastic, you can add some nailvarnish remover to it to prolong its life and you can smooth it out with a brush diped in nailvarnish remover, it will last a long time when you mix it with the nailvarnish remover. i managed to fix 11 figures yesterday in about 2 hours ot more with the bit i mixed. it also sands realy smooth and is easy to sand
 
i gave up on putty years ago because of the shrinking aspect. I have gone to the superglue method. the cons you mentioned were right on. It must be put on in small amounts and sanded within an hour or so. I have had the unfortunate mistake of putting on too much and letting the model sit for too long , by that time the super glue is rock solid. Nice work on this build.
 
Noc5659: Thanks!!

Spud and PpP: I have asked my LHS to order some for me. So I will give it a try along with the 3M putty in the future! Mr. Dissolved putty is going to be here on Friday!!
 
i should thank you because you gave me teh idea for the nail poilish in you vid :)
 
Hey Grendle, would it have been possible to take those
two hull sides and sand them separately? Put them
down on a piece of sand paper and work the entire
perimeter by sanding back and forth......just a bit
enough to clean it up.That may have elevated a
bunch of the seam?
 
Jamaicanmodels69 said:
Hey Grendle, would it have been possible to take those
two hull sides and sand them separately? Put them
down on a piece of sand paper and work the entire
perimeter by sanding back and forth......just a bit
enough to clean it up.That may have elevated a
bunch of the seam?

I did work the seam a bit with a flat file in the way you described. I didn't want to lay them flat, because then I would end up removing the locator pins.

The big problem was that I didn't take my time removing the parts from the sprue. So there were big chunks missing in places.
 
Great vid, Grendels! One of your best I think.

The stuff I'm using, the Magic Sculp, really does appear to be the same as Aves. I've had the problem several times, especially on those hard to reach areas, where I layered it on a bit too thick. I kept getting it stuck to my fingers too, so I'll try wetting them next time!

Mr surfacer looks very useful. If it's the same as a primer, then you could use it after primering, then you wouldn't have to primer over it.

Shame about the Bondo putty. I've seen it before and it's supposed to be good. Would it be possible to remove it from the tube and store it in an air-tight container?

That waterfall was pretty amazing. Really nice piece of engineering. Oh, yeah and romantic too. Looked like you enjoyed yourselves.
 
I was no minute in a doubt You'd kick those seams off, Grendels!
Great work and a great source of information on working with putties.
And yeah, the waterfall looks pretty amazing too, must be a great source of relief in a hot Texas day.
 
I will put up a conclusion video soon. In the video I rate the different putties I used, and explain what I think makes a good putty.

Mr. Surfacer is much like a thick primer. I use it to aid in seam filling, to get those bad spots I can't quite fill with other products. It works great as a small fine filler.

Some people do use it as a primer, take a look at Biskup's Falke build. He used it there.

The bondo worked fine, even in the state it came out of the tube. I am going to use it some more later this week on the Brakiri cruiser.

That water wall is great, one of my favorite spots.
 
Grendels, you shaved off your soup-catcher! ;D (anyone know which sci-fi character said that?).

Great vid! Never knew about your silver paint method to show up the seam lines. Good stuff.

And am I the only one who really wants to see this model GET BUILT? ;D

Looking forward to hearing your conclusions on all of this.

And that Hello Kitty on the toilet might be worth alot of money one day. ;D
 
Igard said:
Grendels, you shaved off your soup-catcher! ;D (anyone know which sci-fi character said that?).

Great vid! Never knew about your silver paint method to show up the seam lines. Good stuff.

And am I the only one who really wants to see this model GET BUILT? ;D

Looking forward to hearing your conclusions on all of this.

And that Hello Kitty on the toilet might be worth alot of money one day. ;D
Looks like someone watches Firefly.
 
Another great vid G!!! I've seen a lot of guys do really well filling seams with CA glue and Tenax but I always go back to Squadron and the Bondo putty. Have you heard of using Milliput two part modelling clay? I want to give it a shot soon. I hear it works well.

P.S. Still diggin your silver paint method.
 
Yep, shaved it off at the request of the Girlfriend. I figured I don't look at myself that much, but she looks at me all the time. So.......

Hello kitty.....I don't know if it will be worth anything in the future, but I think it is funny. Just how many people have a Hello Kitty sitting on the loo nodding her head?

The conclusion video will be up this weekend. I have a surprise in store sometime soon (A new video). Right now is a crazy week at work and I am finding it hard to keep up with everything. But I should find time for it on Tuesday.

I have heard of milliput, but don't want to give it a try. I have read too many post that it is inferior to Aves.

Now for something from YouTube. One of my subscribers sent this:

AVES is excellent for some types of filling, but isn´t good for use as a regular filler. It´s too hard and you will end sanding too deep in the plastic before sanding the aves.

The best way to apply Bondo type filers is with a spatula type instrument, I often use and old x-acto knife.

Solvent type fillers like Bondo and Squadron, has the tendency to shrink when you cover them with a layer of solvent base primer for the firsts layers. This is why you should include your primer in your filling process.

The silver paint is good to show the imperfections. However, IMHO it brings more problems to the equation.

First, you are applying the paint with a brush, so you are adding brush marks to the model.

Second, the silver paint is a "weak" paint, and if you have to mask the model, you possibly will be end pulling the top layers of paint.

You can get the exact same result by airbrushing a thin layer of primer instead of the silver paint.

It's pretty easy to decant the primer from the can, for use in the airbrush. On internet there is a gazillion tutorials.

And here is my response:

Most of what I was doing was for the sake of the video. I wanted to show different methods, and compare and contrast them in one video.

So while I do use aves quite a bit, you will see in the next real build video that it is not what I do to finish up the model. Your points are correct. It is harder than the plastic, and if you don't get it in place correctly, it causes more problems than it fixes.

Like you I usually use an old x-acto knife for bondo type fillers. I don't know what I used in the video. I will have to watch it again and find out.

I did find some shrinkage with the squadrons after I applied a primer to it. That shrinkage was not there before the primer was applied. It puzzled me for a bit, thank you for telling me why.

I do quite often sand smooth the silver paint before a primer is applied. So no brush strokes appear. I use it to see what is going on because it is convenient. Grab the silver paint, brush it on and within seconds I see the problem. Since it is Tamiya, it dries pretty fast and I can get back to work. Sanding and fixing mistakes. The problem with using a primer is that I will have to wait for the primer to dry before I can get back to work, it might be 24 hours before I can get back to it.

I do know how to decant the primer, and I recently found out how to thin Mr. Surfacer for the air brush. So that is a future option as well.

Yes the silver is a weak paint. I used it on my resin model, of the Bakiri cruiser. It will have to be removed before primer is applied. It might not stick to the model very well, but then again it might. I have recently learned that Tamiya paints are a hybrid paint. Something between an acrylic and a Lacquer paint. You can thin it with Lacquer thinner. Since it has that lacquer base, it will bite into a styrene model a bit better than other paints do.

I don't know if that applies to resin though.

Thank you for the email, I am going to share a few parts of it in the next video.

Comments are welcome!
 

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