How do you know what paint to use on my model

DOH! I thought the brush kit had brushes in it that it doesn't have. I thought it had a fan brush but it does not. I can't see wanting more brushes... I can see getting some higher quality brushes. (Some were damaged in shipping.)
 
STARMAKER.REBEL said:
It looks like I need to thin the paint somehow according to a video I just watched. How do I know how much to thin it? I'm using Acrylic and Lacquer paints.

View attachment 126862
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These colors are for my CHinook. I think I like the orange better than the original, but I don't like the Olive Drab Faded color. I just now realized that I didn't shake up the bottle of Olive... I bought a bottle of Medium Olive Green and we will have to see how that one fares.

It is supposed to look like this:

Orangemarking001.png
 
What difference whether it's faded Olive Drab or not. Faded Olive Drab gives it a nice workhorse look. The look on paper is waaay different than the real thing and the actual paint color. Don't judge by looking at the guide comparing it to the paint. Just follow the Federal Satndard color or what the manufacturer recommends for the color.

If it was me, I'd stick with Faded Olive Drab.
 
first coat is like 'YIKES' for the orange but I think I thinned it too much. The green might be usable though. The wheels are from an F-15 that I didn't paint because I didn't have any way to paint it.

first coat.jpg
 
Edbert said:
EDIT:
I wrote the response before the recent post above :)

It looks like you ordered lacquer paints (is that right?). Please be careful with the fumes and allow it to cure well, but once that is done the coating is a much better "canvas" than (disclaimer = some) modern acrylics.

---=== ORIGINAL POST ===---

Maybe you should slow down, just a bit, to save yourself from extra expense and aggravation.


You should decide what mediums you want to use. I am going to oversimplify this so "YMMV"!
  1. Do you have ventilation (a consideration for using paints with toxic thinners)?
  2. Will you be using traditional brushes or an airbrush (probably both)?
  3. Will you be using varnishes and washes (usually requires the combination of solvents)?
Just saying, there are dozens of GREAT paints out there, most are only compatible within their brand but "YMMV" right?
Click to expand...
You were correct. I bought all the wrong paints and wasted money. The big square example that the Scale Hobbyist looks nothing like the paint that I painted on a left-over wheel from an F-15
 
STARMAKER.REBEL said:
first coat is like 'YIKES' for the orange but I think I thinned it too much. The green might be usable though. The wheels are from an F-15 that I didn't paint because I didn't have any way to paint it.

View attachment 126982
Click to expand...
Are you handbrushing or airbrushing? I don't thin my paints when handbrushing but do for airbrushing.
The only exception I thin paint for handbrushing IF the paint is thick.

I use Walmart lacquer thinner. A quart of this goes a long way than your Vallejo brush cleaner.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Klean-Strip-Lacquer-Thinner-1-Quart/28659930
 
STARMAKER.REBEL said:
You were correct. I bought all the wrong paints and wasted money. The big square example that the Scale Hobbyist looks nothing like the paint that I painted on a left-over wheel from an F-15FS
Click to expand...
Whew… I don't know what else to say. Of course it's not going to match from the actual paint to the damn computer screen. It never does. Neither it does in your instruction guide. That's why there's an paint number assignment that is from Gunze/Mr. Hobby (or other paint brand) Sometimes there's a Federal Standard number with it (ie: FS34087).

Slow down. Research what you need and decide if that's what you really need before making that purchase. I always do even though I have a big variety of paint brands (enamels, acrylics and lacquer) from Testors Model Master and Testors small square bottles to PollyScale, PollyScale Railroad Colors, Gunze/Mr. Hobby, AK Interactive Real Colors, Mission Models, and Tamiya (acrylics and lacquer).

Learn from your mistakes, experiment with what paint shade looks good to your satisfaction and learn what paint brand works, what doesn't with different types of thinners.

Understand the difference. Don't worry about the chemistry - it's all irrelevant in my opinion. Besides nobody cares. We all want to build and paint without giving a damn and worrying about the chemistry properties and ingredients of thinners and paint. Yeah… I'm talking to you uromama. LOL!

Read what brand of paint is compatible to which thinners. If unsure, take the dummy proof route and buy the same brand thinner as your paint brand. It'll save you the aggravation of being confused. This is how you learn by trial and error. I've always believed in the K.I.S.S. method in this hobby.

I will speak for everybody and myself, we've all been in this hobby for a long time and have learned a few things along the way. Don't get discouraged and frustrated.
 
BlackSheepTwoOneFour said:
Nope. Can't return paint or thinner at all.

Careful using brush cleaner by Vallejo. Vallejo brush cleaner is just that… a cleaner to thoroughly clean your brushes. Don't know how AK Interactive will react to it. I use lacquer thinner or AK Intractive brand thinner to clean my brushes / airbrush.

You need this for AK Interactive 3rd Gen paints:

https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catag...u=3&pg=1&ppp=48&sb=stocknumber_a&so=d&man=AKI

Your AK Interactive Real Color Black is a Lacquer Acrylic paint - not ALCOHOL based paint. DO NOT use Vallejo Brush Cleaner with Real Color line of paint!!!

Any hardware store lacquer thinner works using Real Color paint line.

Don't take it the wrong way by my response. Just trying to help you out and give some sound advice. Don't worry about the orange. Save it for something else. You'll never know when you'll need that color…or use it anyway. Testors Orange in those small square bottles fits the bill just fine. Look in Hobby Lobby or even Michaels.
Click to expand...

So explain all this then ,
"
Your AK Interactive Real Color Black is a Lacquer Acrylic paint - not ALCOHOL based paint. DO NOT use Vallejo Brush Cleaner with Real Color line of paint!!!

Any hardware store lacquer thinner works using Real Color paint line. "
 
BlackSheepTwoOneFour said:
Whew… I don't know what else to say. Of course it's not going to match from the actual paint to the damn computer screen. It never does. Neither it does in your instruction guide. That's why there's an paint number assignment that is from Gunze/Mr. Hobby (or other paint brand) Sometimes there's a Federal Standard number with it (ie: FS34087).

Slow down. Research what you need and decide if that's what you really need before making that purchase. I always do even though I have a big variety of paint brands (enamels, acrylics and lacquer) from Testors Model Master and Testors small square bottles to PollyScale, PollyScale Railroad Colors, Gunze/Mr. Hobby, AK Interactive Real Colors, Mission Models, and Tamiya (acrylics and lacquer).

Learn from your mistakes, experiment with what paint shade looks good to your satisfaction and learn what paint brand works, what doesn't with different types of thinners.

Understand the difference. Don't worry about the chemistry - it's all irrelevant in my opinion. Besides nobody cares. We all want to build and paint without giving a damn and worrying about the chemistry properties and ingredients of thinners and paint. Yeah… I'm talking to you uromama. LOL!

Read what brand of paint is compatible to which thinners. If unsure, take the dummy proof route and buy the same brand thinner as your paint brand. It'll save you the aggravation of being confused. This is how you learn by trial and error. I've always believed in the K.I.S.S. method in this hobby.

I will speak for everybody and myself, we've all been in this hobby for a long time and have learned a few things along the way. Don't get discouraged and frustrated.
Click to expand...
Second coat. I'm not impressed with either paint. both paints rub off onto the brush but I have to say that the Olive Drab Faded coats better. What is a good wait time between coats? I never thought the orange would be so bright. The example on the computer and also on the paper is what I want... Can't have what I want on actual plastic? Here is a look at the wheel after the second coat:

ColorTestOliveandOrange.jpg
 
STARMAKER.REBEL said:
Second coat. I'm not impressed with either paint. both paints rub off onto the brush but I have to say that the Olive Drab Faded coats better. What is a good wait time between coats? I never thought the orange would be so bright. The example on the computer and also on the paper is what I want... Can't have what I want on actual plastic? Here is a look at the wheel after the second coat:

View attachment 127046
Click to expand...
If you prime in black then the orange will be darker. Pantherman
 

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