How do you know what paint to use on my model

urumomo said:
I don't think he's going to be using primer .
He should .
Sheepy told him it's not needed .
ridiculous upon ridiculous
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He doesn't have to though. No, it's not ridiculous.

Seen that one, bad advice. I always prime.
Congratulations that you always prime. Here's the thing……

It's not bad advice for not using primer. It's a matter of choice, not a set rule that you "ALWAYS MUST" prime. It's a matter of choice, not a hard general set rule.

I know a lot of guys that never prime their kits. I rarely prime but the only exception I will prime is when I'm using Mission Models acrylics. Why? They scratch easily on unprimed surfaces.
 
STARMAKER.REBEL said:
Okay thanks. Just now I painted an extra part of the F-15 without trying to thin the orange. The Lacquer paint dried without being thinned in record time. I can't wat to see how the part looks painted!!

OH NO!!! I forgot that I need primer! Should I buy black primer for the orange parts and grey for the rest of the Helicopter?
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Relax… if you feel you need to prime because these "experts" says so, buy Rustoleum 2X grey primer. More bang for your Buck. Walmart has them.
 
STARMAKER.REBEL said:
I'm greatly dissatisfied with the Orange. I might just leave the orange out. I just put a third coat on the wheel and we will see what that looks like... I realized that the wheel might be difficult to paint with all it's little indentations. Water cleans out the brush easily and I think I finally got the paint to the right consistency like milk like somebody said on here. I have another wheel and if I can't get this wheel to look good I will try the other side of the wheel without the indentations. I found that using a brush that's too big causes the paint to thin too much wasting the paint. I also found out NOT to use paper plates with a Thinner in the paint brcause the plate melts.

EDIT:: I wish it looked like the paint on the paper... THe green is just fine and covers well.

It's dry but the paint thins out across the top areas and gathers in the indentations.

View attachment 127062
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Certain colors are very hard to use. White, yellow, red, orange need to be laid down in light coats - especially with an airbrush. Spray in several light coats until you build up the color. Typically 3 - 5 light coats you should see good results - depending on the color.
 
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STARMAKER.REBEL said:
I got lost... am I supposed to be buying harddware store lacquer thinner?

EDIT:: somehwere on the interwebs there is a video of someone making their own thinning potion.
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No, you don't have to. I'm saying what I use because it works for me all these years.

If you want to save the confusion and frustration of what thinner to use without worrying about the chemistry aspect, buy the brand thinner as your paint brand. Example - AK Interactive 3rd Gen paint, buy AK Interactive 3rd Gen thinner, AK Interactive Real Color paint, buy AK Interactive Real Color thinner, Tamiya paint, use Tamiya thinner, Testors acrylics, use Testors Universal thinner, etc…
 
I finally just globbed on the orange. first coat was terrible if I brushed it on like sweeping the floor. I used an extra soft round brush small enough to need to apply several globbs at a time. I think that after I let it dry and apply a second coat it might be okay.
 
This is the result I get when i try to convert H304 It is correct or not? I got my Medium Olive Green in the mail today. I might be using Medium Olive Green for the M1278 JLTV-GP tactical truck/SUV thing I'm going to sling load beneath the CH-47A Chinook Helicopter

paintconvert001.png


Maybe I should try and find Mr.Color 304 Olive Drab? I bought Olive Drab Faded, and Meduim Olive Green, and just now someone told me to buy this

https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catag...reen-ral-6003-fs34095/AKI000RC209/product.php

I DO like Lacquer better though. so the USMC green might be what I;m looking for?
 
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STARMAKER.REBEL said:
This is the result I get when i try to convert H304 It is correct or not? I got my Medium Olive Green in the mail today. I might be using Medium Olive Green for the M1278 JLTV-GP tactical truck/SUV thing I'm going to sling load beneath the CH-47A Chinook Helicopter

View attachment 127172


Maybe I should try and find Mr.Color 304 Olive Drab? I bought Olive Drab Faded, and Meduim Olive Green, and just now someone told me to buy this

https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catag...reen-ral-6003-fs34095/AKI000RC209/product.php

I DO like Lacquer better though. so the USMC green might be what I;m looking for?
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If you got Mr. Color version paint, do get Mr. Color thinner. Lacquer thinner don't play nice with Mr.Color paints. I learned that the hard way a couple years ago. Sprayed spider webbing through the airbrush using lacquer thinner. They also tend to be on the thick side.

How to tell whether you're getting Mr. Color or Gunze paints:

A letter C followed with the number is Mr. Color
A letter H followed with the number is Gunze.
 
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This time I didn't thin the paint and just used a small nylon hair brush on the other wheel. This is the first coat of orange on the wheel without thinning. Then the airplane hard-point (Orange and green) has it's second coat of Luminous Orange and it's second coat of Olive Drab Faded. This is the second coat of each Olive Drab faded on the Hard-point.

I like the Olive Drab Faded here: https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catag...drab-faded-no-9-no-22/AKI000RC884/product.php

Like I said I just globbed on the orange paint on the orange and green hard-Point

colortest001.jpg
 
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BlackSheepTwoOneFour said:
If you got Mr. Color version paint, do get Mr. Color thinner. Lacquer thinner don't play nice with Mr.Color paints. I learned that the hard way a couple years ago. Sprayed spider webbing through the airbrush using lacquer thinner. They also tend to be on the thick side.

How to tell whether you're getting Mr. Color or Gunze paints:

A letter C followed with the number is Mr. Color
A letter H followed with the number is Gunze.
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Okay I have been trying to get a Mr. Color color instead of C to H numbers and then converted to AK for some reason.. Someone on here said to use the Olive Drab Faded paint and as far as the green goes I love Olive Drab Green Faded. I might just stop here and paint the fuselage of my CH-47A Chinook Helicopter Olive Drab Faded and use the orange I already have. Luminous orange looks nothing like it does on the computer and instead I feel like I'm going hunting with my Helicopter. LOL! I think I have the colors I want; Thank God!!!! I haven't tried the yellow and the black yet but I imagine that Yellow will be just like the orange. I won't need to use a lot of orange and have like 6 times as much yellow which isn't a whole lot. I can't find any pictures anywhere of the Chinook with orange and yellow markings though and I want to know what the bottom of it looks like.

Thanks for your help. I think I will try one more color... the USMC Green someone suggested and if that doesn;'t work I will just stick with the Olive Drab Faded.
 
I'm the one that told you about the Faded Olive Drab. What'd I tell ya? I told you the Faded Olive Drab is a good match. You're welcome. ROFL!

I also mentioned USMC Green as well.
 
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