Revell - Maquis Fighter

[Quaralane]

Your panel work is looking really good.

As to the paint stand, it's entirely up to you. Do what makes YOU feel comfortable.
I use a couple of different ones, but nothing is foolproof for dings in the paint

 

[Biskup]

Looking really good. I'm waiting for the weathering.
Cheers
Lukasz

 

[Igard]

Thanks, Punk, Grendels, Quaralane and Biskup.

Punk, that's good advice. I thinned it out, not as much as if I were putting it through the airbrush, maybe about 1/3rd thinner, and it's a little bit cakey in some places. I kept mixing the paint to keep it consistent.

I think the problem with this model is that it's a bit heavy. Even without the batteries in, there's a fair bit of heft to it. That's probably what's resulting in more little dings in the paint than usual. It's also really hard to figure out a way of holding it without any holes drilled.

Lukasz, I'm really looking forward to doing the wash! It's either going to make it or break it! Fun times!

I'm going to scour youtube for some videos on washes. I've seen a couple before. It looks easy enough, but I have no idea. It might be really difficult for all I know. ???

Thanks again, Gentlemen. 8)

 

[punkpigpen]

chips can happen to the paint. just keep a little of the mixed batch around till the end. remember i work with the heaviest kits. the Tie Fighter kit was almost 10 pounds with the metal armature. maybe rig up something to keep it in contact with the table. sometimes i work on mine with spare thick black foam. keeps its safe when i work on detailing the weathering on the bottom of the ships

 

[Grendels]

Here is a good video on making washes:

How to make Washes Les' Recipe

And a link to the actual recipe:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/261541.page

 

[JohnSimmons]

Great work so far mate! My Outrider is very heavy (my wrist even starts to ache while holding it when I airbrush it!) but I leave it resting on a large piece of foam like punkpigpen does when detailing. And good luck with the wash it can be daunting at first but you'll get the hang of it. I used to mix my own ( humbrol mixed with enamel thinners) but I moved on to mig productions range.

 

[punkpigpen]

Fiory models also makes a easy to use water based one. ive used it and their "dark dirt" is my old mix of brown and black. clear coat gloss and slop it on!

 

[Igard]

@Grendels. Thanks for the vid, but it looks a bit advanced for me at the moment.

merseajohn and PpigP, I was thinking about just using black tamiya with thinner, but that's probably not going to give great results. I think I'll either go with Mig or flory. I know one of the sites I order from stocks flory's stuff.

Might do away with my Pledge floor wax and get some clear coats.

Punk, why do you say to use a clear gloss? Why not clear matt? Does it make a difference? I definately don't want this bird looking glossy.

Thanks for the feedback guys, really appreciate it! 8)

 

[punkpigpen]

the matt surface wants to suck up the wash permanently. the gloss will allow the wash to enter all the panel lines and the rest just clean up waith a damp paper towel or q-tip. if you use mig wash then clean up with enamel thinner the same way.
you can leave a matt surface if you get good at a pin wash. after you clean off the unwanted wash , clear with matt to continue to your weathering stages. i hope that helps!

 

[Igard]

Thanks, man! That's very helpful.

I'll go with flory's wash. Is a 50ml bottle enough for a model this size?

 

[punkpigpen]

more than enough.

 

[Igard]

Cool. Thanks, Punk. 8)

I think I'll start attaching the engine grills and the wings now. Gonna be good to have it all in one piece.

 

[Grendels]

@Grendels. Thanks for the vid, but it looks a bit advanced for me at the moment.

If you want to know the truth, I have never used a wash. All of my weathering is done with oil paints. You can thin them to make a wash, and I have done that, you can use them as they are to make streaking. Basically you can do most of this with a basic set of oil colors.

The benefit is that they take days to dry. So if you mess up, just wipe it off and start over.

The bad part is that they take days to dry. Once you are done leave it alone for four or five days before you clear coat.

 

[Igard]

I think using oil paints for weathering looks very cool. I'll try it out one day.

Right now, I'm kind of intrigued by the wash method. Watched a couple of flory's videos and his stuff looks like the easiest by far.

So, I've ordered some Modelmaster flat and gloss clear spray cans, as well as Flory's dark dirt weathering wash.

I've also searched down a pic for decals, just for fun.



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[punkpigpen]

you wont need oils for that kit.The Fiory washes are fine for that.
I'll be using oils on my 1/16 tank build (see armor)!
I use oils too but not often. i have all those MIG oils but any old oil paints will do. And some odorless turpenoid too.

 

[Igard]

That tank looks MEAN, punk!

Ok, stupid question (I'll try to make this my only one for the day), if I remove the masks from the clear parts now, will they still look ok after spraying the clear coats? If these clear coats are like varnish, then won't I have a difficult time removing the masking?

 

[JohnSimmons]

Leave the masks till last, you'll fog up the clear parts if you spray them! They can be dipped in klear to give them shine but that's different to spraying. Once those clear parts fog up your screwed.

 

[Igard]

Cheers, John. I was thinking about attaching the wings and the engine grills, but that would require removing some masking.

 

[Solander]

Igard, great work with all the panels and the golden grilles, man!
This ship is turning better and better with each layer of paint
One little tip:with a good coat of clear gloss You will have about 3-5 minutes to remove the excess of flory or MiG washes without even using finner. They will go away on the edge of a towel. But if the washes get on the bare paint, especially the matt one, they will diffuse almost immediately, and while getting rid of them You will have to take away the paint with the finner as well. So I'd recommend You not to keep the gloss laquer, the model has to shine like a pearl Don't worry - all the layers of matt finish (to fix washes, to fix weathering, to fix final touches e.t.c) would kill glossy effect.

 

[Solander]

Just forgot, one more extra important thing! Even gloss lacquers which didn't fully dry are still absorbive, even more than the layer of paint! Let your gloss finish dry, best for a day, before starting with the washes.