JohnSimmons
For Spud: I was once Merseajohn
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2011
- Messages
- 5,645
Take your time Sol dont rush!! 
Solander's "Gungan Reaper" (AAT)
- Thread starter Solander
- Start date
ModelMakerMike
"It's Slobberin' time""
- Joined
- May 28, 2011
- Messages
- 1,838
Yeah Sol....Don't rush it!
No pressure.
No pressure.
Jamaicanmodels69
New Member
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2011
- Messages
- 604
Hey sol come on man hurry up! ;D
Just kidding its looking great! ;D
Just kidding its looking great! ;D
Lol ;D
Alright, guys, I've finally made it!
Adding all the welding to match the studio model as well as the rivets took me even more then I expected..
Well, most because at first I wanted to add them only to the key locations - where the repulsorlift-section meets the main part of the hull and on the hull's middle, but in the end could not resist creating maximum accuracy.
For the welding I've first tried to use two-component green stuff by Army Painter, but that didn't look like welding to me at all. So, I've sanded them down (in the end putty played it's natural role - filled the gaps) and went Ken's way he depicted in his now running thread about HLJ Ma.K. Ketzer (there is a link posted by Scott several posts higher).
One thing I would add to his great tip is this: at first for softening the plastic (I've used a thin styrene Evergreen rods for the welding) I've used Revell's "Contacta" glue, and it worked great except that it was affecting the plastic of the model itself bit around the welding. After a bit of experimenting, I've ended with "Micro Weld" (its very name speaks for itself) by Microscale - this glue is not so strong asRevell and a couple of others (I've also tried Zvezda and Acan) so when the evergreen plastic is soft already, the model is not affected at all.
With the welding, rivets, and all the left small details like handrails and additional machinery on the boarding ramp added, I've sprayed the model with a gray primer by Army Painter.
That gave me the first adhesive layer, and helped to notice all the roughness on the kit.
So, then, after sanding down all the problem areas, when much of the primer had gone on the sanding paper, I've given the model a second layer of metallic primer by Acan, now with an airbrush for a more precise applying.
This layer would serve as an imitation of bare metal (yeaaaahhh, babe METALLLL!!! 8) ;D) when I will simulate paint scribes.
To harden the metallic layer even more (so it doesnt go away with the next layers of paint when I scribe them), and fill all the left scratches on the models surface I didn't manage to get rid of while sanding, I finally applied a layer a Future.
So, here is the result of all that work, hope you enjoy it mates
Alright, guys, I've finally made it!
Adding all the welding to match the studio model as well as the rivets took me even more then I expected..
Well, most because at first I wanted to add them only to the key locations - where the repulsorlift-section meets the main part of the hull and on the hull's middle, but in the end could not resist creating maximum accuracy.
For the welding I've first tried to use two-component green stuff by Army Painter, but that didn't look like welding to me at all. So, I've sanded them down (in the end putty played it's natural role - filled the gaps) and went Ken's way he depicted in his now running thread about HLJ Ma.K. Ketzer (there is a link posted by Scott several posts higher).
One thing I would add to his great tip is this: at first for softening the plastic (I've used a thin styrene Evergreen rods for the welding) I've used Revell's "Contacta" glue, and it worked great except that it was affecting the plastic of the model itself bit around the welding. After a bit of experimenting, I've ended with "Micro Weld" (its very name speaks for itself) by Microscale - this glue is not so strong asRevell and a couple of others (I've also tried Zvezda and Acan) so when the evergreen plastic is soft already, the model is not affected at all.
With the welding, rivets, and all the left small details like handrails and additional machinery on the boarding ramp added, I've sprayed the model with a gray primer by Army Painter.
That gave me the first adhesive layer, and helped to notice all the roughness on the kit.
So, then, after sanding down all the problem areas, when much of the primer had gone on the sanding paper, I've given the model a second layer of metallic primer by Acan, now with an airbrush for a more precise applying.
This layer would serve as an imitation of bare metal (yeaaaahhh, babe METALLLL!!! 8) ;D) when I will simulate paint scribes.
To harden the metallic layer even more (so it doesnt go away with the next layers of paint when I scribe them), and fill all the left scratches on the models surface I didn't manage to get rid of while sanding, I finally applied a layer a Future.
So, here is the result of all that work, hope you enjoy it mates
Thank you, guys!Dark Kyp, I agree about the flat look of the welding. You see, this is one more problem I've encountered - both using the method of putty or of the rod+glue if I've pushed to much in the center of the future weld the putty (or the plastic) moved to the sides of the welding line instead of going deeper in the corner. I mean it ended up looking like two welds, separated by a gap. Don't no, maybe there should be a seam beneath the place you are applying a weld to?
Well at least I 110% still have to have some more practice with imitating welding, thats for sure
Dark Kyp
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2011
- Messages
- 714
One solution could be heating the rod with a needle, but that's dangerous for the other parts I think...
Or machining with a dremel, but that sounds dangerous, too...
In french we have a saying who tell: The better is the enemy of the good... I think it applies good here
The welds have an oldschool look I think!
You're rivet job is impressiv!
Or machining with a dremel, but that sounds dangerous, too...
In french we have a saying who tell: The better is the enemy of the good... I think it applies good here
The welds have an oldschool look I think!
You're rivet job is impressiv!
Thanks again, Dark Kyp, buddy
p.s: You now, in russian we have a saying which matches the one You presented to the very last word - absolutely similar. It is to consider that as a rule in different languages there are almost always saying which are identical by their idea, but different, so to say,in the way of presentation.
After all, getting acquainted with foreign languages keeps fascinating me about how many incommon they have, how deeply crossed their histories are. That makes me almost regret sometimes that I didn't go to study philology
p.s: You now, in russian we have a saying which matches the one You presented to the very last word - absolutely similar. It is to consider that as a rule in different languages there are almost always saying which are identical by their idea, but different, so to say,in the way of presentation.
After all, getting acquainted with foreign languages keeps fascinating me about how many incommon they have, how deeply crossed their histories are. That makes me almost regret sometimes that I didn't go to study philology
ModelMakerMike
"It's Slobberin' time""
- Joined
- May 28, 2011
- Messages
- 1,838
Sol....Sol.....Sol,
what can I say?
It looks great! Beautiful, awesome, Fantatstico!
Although the welds look thick, I don't think it's a bad thing. It looks like early WWII tank armor stuff, which I think is totally applicable to Star Wars.
I think I would have gone insane dealing with all those rivets.
;D
Awesome stuff.....as usual.
what can I say?
It looks great! Beautiful, awesome, Fantatstico!
Although the welds look thick, I don't think it's a bad thing. It looks like early WWII tank armor stuff, which I think is totally applicable to Star Wars.
I think I would have gone insane dealing with all those rivets.
;D
Awesome stuff.....as usual.
Cheers for the compliments, guys!
That really helps moving along
Today, during a looooong painting session I've managed to deal with most of the colors required to be painted.
Now its only left to apply some paint on the smal details by hand (manly guns barrels) and it would come the time for all sorts of weathering known.
The Force is telling me that would be fun ;D
That really helps moving along
Today, during a looooong painting session I've managed to deal with most of the colors required to be painted.
Now its only left to apply some paint on the smal details by hand (manly guns barrels) and it would come the time for all sorts of weathering known.
The Force is telling me that would be fun ;D
NecronautDrummer
Member
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2011
- Messages
- 804
EPIC!! What a great build! Can't wait for the weathering!
fumblethumbs
New Member
- Joined
- May 22, 2011
- Messages
- 963
WOW!! Great looking build Sol! A+ on the extra detail work. It's does look sharp.
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