JohnSimmons
For Spud: I was once Merseajohn
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2011
- Messages
- 5,645
Wow missed the last couple of updates, I have to echo what the rest of the herd says mate, it looks fantastic. As always your eye for detail is really showing 
Solander's "Gungan Reaper" (AAT)
- Thread starter Solander
- Start date
Thank you, gentlemen
Right now I'm trying my skills in creating scratches on the paint, using the underside of the vehicle as a training field.
You see, my problem is that I often find myself overdoing such kinds of work, but with how the underside of the studio AAT looks I think I can fear that less
Now, here is where I'm at now, guess that would be enough. Next stop is simulating a less damaged layer of light-grey primer around those scars. The fact that they are made as real instead of just painting them would make this easier, since their edges are textured.
Right now I'm trying my skills in creating scratches on the paint, using the underside of the vehicle as a training field.
You see, my problem is that I often find myself overdoing such kinds of work, but with how the underside of the studio AAT looks I think I can fear that less
Now, here is where I'm at now, guess that would be enough. Next stop is simulating a less damaged layer of light-grey primer around those scars. The fact that they are made as real instead of just painting them would make this easier, since their edges are textured.
YOULI
That which does not kill us makes us stronger !
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2011
- Messages
- 947
Brilliant !
Have you tried the "sponge" method ?
Or even the metttalic primer, your overall coat and then scribbing here and there ? Of course the mettalic primer would be a different paint than the overall coat.
There is also the famous Hairspray method, with or without salt...
I even developped an original method with acrylic, vinylic paints and enamel washes.
You do your primer coat as you like but metallic or a very different color coulb be good. Then you use a vinylic color, vallejo (Prince August in France) and paintTHERE you obtain a scratch and realistic surface.
Have you tried the "sponge" method ?
Or even the metttalic primer, your overall coat and then scribbing here and there ? Of course the mettalic primer would be a different paint than the overall coat.
There is also the famous Hairspray method, with or without salt...
I even developped an original method with acrylic, vinylic paints and enamel washes.
You do your primer coat as you like but metallic or a very different color coulb be good. Then you use a vinylic color, vallejo (Prince August in France) and paintTHERE you obtain a scratch and realistic surface.
YOULI
That which does not kill us makes us stronger !
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2011
- Messages
- 947
YOULI said:
Odd
A good part of my last sentence is missing.
As I said, after you paint with Vallejo type paint, you use an Enamel (Black, brown, as you like) Wash with White Spirit. As you wipe the excess of wash, there will be small scratches and the vinylic paint will disapear here and there. It's not perfect, it goes randomely, but it's kinda realistic IMHO
Cheers for the compliments, guys!
And thank You for great tips, YOULI! The first way You've described with metallic primer is exactly what I'm using here, quite satisfied with the results for now (more pics are coming soon)
As for the random taking off paint with white spirit-thinned enamel wash - thats sounds pretty realistic and fast to achieve, I'd agree. I'll remember this one to use on one of my nearest new projects for sure
And thank You for great tips, YOULI! The first way You've described with metallic primer is exactly what I'm using here, quite satisfied with the results for now (more pics are coming soon
)As for the random taking off paint with white spirit-thinned enamel wash - thats sounds pretty realistic and fast to achieve, I'd agree. I'll remember this one to use on one of my nearest new projects for sure
JohnSimmons
For Spud: I was once Merseajohn
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2011
- Messages
- 5,645
Wow nice job Sol! Sorry I may be thick but how are you creating that effect?
Igard
New Member
- Joined
- May 16, 2011
- Messages
- 2,004
Looks sweet so far, Sol!
I've heard of the hair-spray method, but not the metallic primer method. Is it the same principle? Basically (from my limited understanding) chipping off the top coat because beneath it, there is a layer of hairspray/metallic primer?
Am I even close? ;D
I've heard of the hair-spray method, but not the metallic primer method. Is it the same principle? Basically (from my limited understanding) chipping off the top coat because beneath it, there is a layer of hairspray/metallic primer?
Am I even close? ;D
Pretty close, Igard.
The algorithm of this method is the following (or at least here is how I'm achieving the effect):
1 - spray a layer of silver primer or any other primer - then a coat of silver or any other metallic you want to appear in the effect
2 - spray a mid-thick layer of future all over the model. this would help secure the metallic layer, provide a good adhesion for the paint going next but along with that won't prevent good chipping. Plus to all that it has one other advantage - it fills all the small curves and seams on the model's surface way better then any primer.
3 - Let the future dry over the night (good drying of everything is of a great importance here in this technique)
4 - Spray a coat of color you want to make the "real vehicle's" primer of. This step can be skipped, as I did and now regret this, as I'll have to paint all the primer left unchipped around silver areas by hand :'(
5 - Spray all the rest colors on. The paint must be acrylic, and not any one will do. I've found that Vallejo is far superior here then any other.
6 - Let this all dry justice, for a good period of time. Mine has been drying for two days.
7- Everything is ready for clear creationship. Take a toothpick with a thin edge, put it in water. Then apply the water over the area where you want to place the chip. Wait a couple secs for the water to soak into paint, then start gently scribing the form of a chip you want to achieve.
Well, thats the idea. The water makes the bond between the paint and the future not so strong, but as it soaks into the microcopillars of the surface it provides a slightly randomistic effect, and that brings more realism.
I think that advantages of this method compared to hairspray chipping is that the whole surface of the model is ready for chipping, In the end you get a layer of paint with much better adhesion (even after drying hairspray leaves the layer of paint with a less good bond to the surface) and, finally, you won't end up on your wife's/girlfriend's wall frozen in carbonite by a bounty hunter she hired after discovering her favorite hairspray missing
Here is where I'm now playing with those chips:
The algorithm of this method is the following (or at least here is how I'm achieving the effect):
1 - spray a layer of silver primer or any other primer - then a coat of silver or any other metallic you want to appear in the effect
2 - spray a mid-thick layer of future all over the model. this would help secure the metallic layer, provide a good adhesion for the paint going next but along with that won't prevent good chipping. Plus to all that it has one other advantage - it fills all the small curves and seams on the model's surface way better then any primer.
3 - Let the future dry over the night (good drying of everything is of a great importance here in this technique)
4 - Spray a coat of color you want to make the "real vehicle's" primer of. This step can be skipped, as I did and now regret this, as I'll have to paint all the primer left unchipped around silver areas by hand :'(
5 - Spray all the rest colors on. The paint must be acrylic, and not any one will do. I've found that Vallejo is far superior here then any other.
6 - Let this all dry justice, for a good period of time. Mine has been drying for two days.
7- Everything is ready for clear creationship. Take a toothpick with a thin edge, put it in water. Then apply the water over the area where you want to place the chip. Wait a couple secs for the water to soak into paint, then start gently scribing the form of a chip you want to achieve.
Well, thats the idea. The water makes the bond between the paint and the future not so strong, but as it soaks into the microcopillars of the surface it provides a slightly randomistic effect, and that brings more realism.
I think that advantages of this method compared to hairspray chipping is that the whole surface of the model is ready for chipping, In the end you get a layer of paint with much better adhesion (even after drying hairspray leaves the layer of paint with a less good bond to the surface) and, finally, you won't end up on your wife's/girlfriend's wall frozen in carbonite by a bounty hunter she hired after discovering her favorite hairspray missing
Here is where I'm now playing with those chips:
Grendels
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2009
- Messages
- 9,092
Thank you for the explination. I have not yet tried the hair spray method, but it has worried me because the hairspray does weaken the bond for the paint. (That is why you can chip it.) This method need further thought...... and a little experimentation.
ModelMakerMike
"It's Slobberin' time""
- Joined
- May 28, 2011
- Messages
- 1,838
Sol,
those chips look great, and very realistic.
So, it sounds like you didn't get the primer color for the vehicle that you wanted?
Did you want it to be something other than grey primer, or metallic silver?
Thanx for giving us a low down on how you do it! I have been wanting to learn that technique for a while now.
;D
those chips look great, and very realistic.
So, it sounds like you didn't get the primer color for the vehicle that you wanted?
Did you want it to be something other than grey primer, or metallic silver?
Thanx for giving us a low down on how you do it! I have been wanting to learn that technique for a while now.
;D
Glad you've found the info useful, guys
Not exactly, pal.
You see, in real life there is often a border of primer left around chipped area. Here I mean real primer which is applied on "big" machines.
This effect was simulated on the chipping of the studio model of AAT also (note white around silver chipping)
During working on the underside of my kit, I've found that this effect is easily achieved with a layer of paint under the one you're getting rid off. (on the pics in my previous posts note an area of main yellowish-tan color around the chips applied on darker brownish areas)
Unfortunately, that was a sudden discovery, or else I would have sprayed a layer of white over metallic and Future, and only after that the main yellowish-tan color.
This would have allowed me to obtain the "left-primer" effect way faster.
Unfortunately, now I have only one option left - to carefully paint some white on the edges of the chips by hand. As I've planned in the very beginning.
I expect that to be time-consuming, by hey, when did that stop me, right?
ModelMakerMike said:
Not exactly, pal.
You see, in real life there is often a border of primer left around chipped area. Here I mean real primer which is applied on "big" machines.
This effect was simulated on the chipping of the studio model of AAT also (note white around silver chipping)
During working on the underside of my kit, I've found that this effect is easily achieved with a layer of paint under the one you're getting rid off. (on the pics in my previous posts note an area of main yellowish-tan color around the chips applied on darker brownish areas)
Unfortunately, that was a sudden discovery, or else I would have sprayed a layer of white over metallic and Future, and only after that the main yellowish-tan color.
This would have allowed me to obtain the "left-primer" effect way faster.
Unfortunately, now I have only one option left - to carefully paint some white on the edges of the chips by hand. As I've planned in the very beginning.
I expect that to be time-consuming, by hey, when did that stop me, right?
ModelMakerMike
"It's Slobberin' time""
- Joined
- May 28, 2011
- Messages
- 1,838
Yeah, okay.
I get what you're saying.
I have seen a video on youtube by "girlpainting" where she does the same thing. Except, she dabbed on a dark grey/black paint, to simulate paint chips, and then took a fine brush, and painted some hi-lights along the edges. I think she did it on a Cryx war jack for the miniature game "warmachine".
So far, your tank is looking great....What else should we expect?
I get what you're saying.
I have seen a video on youtube by "girlpainting" where she does the same thing. Except, she dabbed on a dark grey/black paint, to simulate paint chips, and then took a fine brush, and painted some hi-lights along the edges. I think she did it on a Cryx war jack for the miniature game "warmachine".
So far, your tank is looking great....What else should we expect?
Thanks alot for the compliments, guys!
I've got bored with chipping, and tried the edges highlighting technique today, hoping that a good result would give me some inspiration.
And it turned so that it did.
At least I find the 3D effect quite satisfactory.
Just a little bit too much contrast on my taste, but that would go away with further washing and weathering.
What do you think, folks?
I've got bored with chipping, and tried the edges highlighting technique today, hoping that a good result would give me some inspiration.
And it turned so that it did.
At least I find the 3D effect quite satisfactory.
Just a little bit too much contrast on my taste, but that would go away with further washing and weathering.
What do you think, folks?
ModelMakerMike
"It's Slobberin' time""
- Joined
- May 28, 2011
- Messages
- 1,838
I think it looks terrific!!!
ModelMakerMike
"It's Slobberin' time""
- Joined
- May 28, 2011
- Messages
- 1,838
Still looking fantastic, Sol.
JohnSimmons
For Spud: I was once Merseajohn
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2011
- Messages
- 5,645
Very convincing! It looks great!
Similar threads
