Group Build: Historical Warships of WWII

[Edbert]

I admit that I underestimated the complexity and detail of this kit when I bought it. That said, I'm digging it, nothing makes you flow down like so much hyper-thin PE!



It is a bit blurry at the top there, but that indicates another error on my part. Those three tubular supports should all be at the same height, not sure if I installed the wrong part entirely or if I did not connect it correctly. No big deal to resolve of course, but that sideways bit in the center needs to sit on top of those posts. Going to wait until I put more PE on before I do that.

 

[Calico Jack]

@Edbert that looks outstanding! Nothing like some intricate bends and rail placements.

 

[blakeh1]

I do have a 1/350 Yorktown to finish, but I think this might be a chance/excuse to get this done instead



It is an interesting subject in that it started out as what was supposed to be the third ship in the Yamato-class after the Yamato and Musashi.
However, after the Battle Of Midway loss of 4 of it's carriers, and the dawning realization that battleships were no longer they key to victory, the partially completed hull was turned into an aircraft carrier.
She was sunk by the American sub Archerfish 10 days after commissioning on it's first mission sailing to Kure
Like the other Yamato class it had a design flaw which helped it sink so quickly and unexpectedly despite what should not have been as bad damage wise

Figured it should look good sitting next to the Yamato in the display case

 

[Edbert]

Took a break from the superstructure to work on the hull. I spent HOURS sanding the main seam underneath, frankly it needs more work, but the parts that show...will not show unless it is picked up and turned upside down.

Instructions say to use Tamiya XF9, which is really a brown with very little red. So I think that Trumpeter and Tamiya are both wrong. I mixed it about 50-50 with XF7 which is extremely bright red and it is still a bit on the brown side of red, but I reddened it a lot so calling that one done too.


That light gray that is similar to the plastic is just primer, so ignore the color of it. I am thinking I need to complete the sides and clear them before I start putting the details onto the deck. What do you shipbuilders say? How to you keep the hull colors from getting on the superstructure? There
is no clear delimiter, well there is, but it is not a solid/smooth thing, do I need to cut a hundred little bits of tape to mask that?

The reason for this is the choice to paint measure 22, where there's a dark blue side with lighter blue upper and even gray parts. The guide shown above is what she wore at Iwo Jima and Okinawa (I think) and I'm wanting to attempt the more difficult D-Day colors.

Vertical Surfaces:

Navy Blue 5-N
To be applied to the hull to the height of the main deck edge at its lowest point. The upper edge of this Navy Blue are should be horizontal.

Haze Gray, 5-H
All remaining vertical surfaces and all masts and small gear.​

Horizontal Surfaces:

Deck Blue, 20-B.
All horizontal surfaces above the siding.​

============

Does this picture (from wikipedia) represent the correct application of colors to you?



The navy blue stripe would not have that departure line the way it does on this destroyer of course, so it would go all the way up the sides? The black water-line stripe shows how dark the navy blue really is (if accurate), I cannot find any color photos of her in this color scheme, the black& white ones are just not clear enough. I'm thinking I'll cheat a little and make more contrast between the two.

Last question for now, thanks in advance, this is new subject matter to me...
Does the horizontal surfaces being deck blue include the top of the fighting towers and turrets, or just the main flooring/deck areas?

 

[BarleyBop]

Thanks for sharing your work, and asking these questions in such a methodical way! I don't have answers, but your project is making for an excellent primer for others, like me, of a ship build!

 

[TimM63]

Took a break from the superstructure to work on the hull. I spent HOURS sanding the main seam underneath, frankly it needs more work, but the parts that show...will not show unless it is picked up and turned upside down.

Instructions say to use Tamiya XF9, which is really a brown with very little red. So I think that Trumpeter and Tamiya are both wrong. I mixed it about 50-50 with XF7 which is extremely bright red and it is still a bit on the brown side of red, but I reddened it a lot so calling that one done too.

View attachment 136167
That light gray that is similar to the plastic is just primer, so ignore the color of it. I am thinking I need to complete the sides and clear them before I start putting the details onto the deck. What do you shipbuilders say? How to you keep the hull colors from getting on the superstructure? There
is no clear delimiter, well there is, but it is not a solid/smooth thing, do I need to cut a hundred little bits of tape to mask that?

The reason for this is the choice to paint measure 22, where there's a dark blue side with lighter blue upper and even gray parts. The guide shown above is what she wore at Iwo Jima and Okinawa (I think) and I'm wanting to attempt the more difficult D-Day colors.

Vertical Surfaces:

Navy Blue 5-N
To be applied to the hull to the height of the main deck edge at its lowest point. The upper edge of this Navy Blue are should be horizontal.

Haze Gray, 5-H
All remaining vertical surfaces and all masts and small gear.​

Horizontal Surfaces:

Deck Blue, 20-B.
All horizontal surfaces above the siding.​

============

Does this picture (from wikipedia) represent the correct application of colors to you?

View attachment 136168

The navy blue stripe would not have that departure line the way it does on this destroyer of course, so it would go all the way up the sides? The black water-line stripe shows how dark the navy blue really is (if accurate), I cannot find any color photos of her in this color scheme, the black& white ones are just not clear enough. I'm thinking I'll cheat a little and make more contrast between the two.

Last question for now, thanks in advance, this is new subject matter to me...
Does the horizontal surfaces being deck blue include the top of the fighting towers and turrets, or just the main flooring/deck areas?

This is what I used on the LST. It looks very close to the actual anti-fouling red.