errains said:
Oh Jelly I for got to answer your question about how the AB works.
The Trigger has a built in stop. So when you are pulling the trigger all you get is air until you hit the stop. applying more pressure moves the trigger past the built-in stop. So past the stop is when the start to get paint. More Trigger pull equals more paint. Since I never really got the hang of the top trigger ABs I was able to pick this up real fast. but may take some getting use to for other people.
Hope that make sense. ???
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Hey, man, thank you very much for the AB firing principle explanation. Eric, after reading it either twice or ten times (clarification: due to my language restraints), now I understand it 100%.
Your AB looks the FN-SCAR of the AB´s… wow ! For European prices, 200 US bucks is a joke (I got my Iwata from CANADA): here we´re used to tie dogs to fences with sausages, I won´t even try to find out the price of your AB here… enjoy it… may I know wich nozzle calibre do you play with? May I believe it´s a 0,3mm one? I think this trigger concept would work very fine with the 0,2 mm calibre…
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Ergonomically (I think this is the correct word in english language) I believe & think that with a trigger in that position it is feasible to get a better control of the movement & pressure applied with the finger than with a top-trigger AB.
I have an excellent Iwata (top trigger AB), and really I love it, man, but I must confess that as I´m not frequently firing with it, I´m not an “experten†(veeeery faaaar from it ) with it´s trigger. But for a low - profile modeller like me, it is Sweet Cream (and I believe that really it is, sincerely
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).
I can´t believe that you were “scared†of beginning to paint ! ! ! ;D
;D I´ll follow your advise… and from now on, I´ll label my wooden blocks with “Pana Bise - Poor Man´s Freedom Degrees - Limited Edition Kit â€" Environmentally Friendly †(I say B, not V, due to copyright stuff).
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“See youâ€, Eric!
RG