errains said:
Oh Jelly I for got to answer your question about how the AB works.
The Trigger has a built in stop. So when you are pulling the trigger all you get is air until you hit the stop. applying more pressure moves the trigger past the built-in stop. So past the stop is when the start to get paint. More Trigger pull equals more paint. Since I never really got the hang of the top trigger ABs I was able to pick this up real fast. but may take some getting use to for other people.
Hope that make sense. ???
Hey, man, thank you very much for the AB firing principle explanation. Eric, after reading it either twice or ten times (clarification: due to my language restraints), now I understand it 100%.
Your AB looks the FN-SCAR of the AB´s… wow ! For European prices, 200 US bucks is a joke (I got my Iwata from CANADA): here we´re used to tie dogs to fences with sausages, I won´t even try to find out the price of your AB here… enjoy it… may I know wich nozzle calibre do you play with? May I believe it´s a 0,3mm one? I think this trigger concept would work very fine with the 0,2 mm calibre…
Ergonomically (I think this is the correct word in english language) I believe & think that with a trigger in that position it is feasible to get a better control of the movement & pressure applied with the finger than with a top-trigger AB.
I have an excellent Iwata (top trigger AB), and really I love it, man, but I must confess that as I´m not frequently firing with it, I´m not an “experten†(veeeery faaaar from it ) with it´s trigger. But for a low - profile modeller like me, it is Sweet Cream (and I believe that really it is, sincerely
).
I can´t believe that you were “scared†of beginning to paint ! ! ! ;D
;D I´ll follow your advise… and from now on, I´ll label my wooden blocks with “Pana Bise - Poor Man´s Freedom Degrees - Limited Edition Kit â€" Environmentally Friendly †(I say B, not V, due to copyright stuff).
“See youâ€, Eric!
RG